Our purpose is to promote the interest, keeping,
study, and breeding of freshwater and marine life. Additionally, the exchange
of ideas, conservation and distribution of information concerning aquatic
life is our primary
interest.
"One should learn to breed the species of fish we
maintain so that we do not wantonly endanger the creatures of the rivers,
lakes, and oceans by reducing their numbers until they are in danger of
extinction."
This site is intended to be informational in
nature and was created with our members in mind, but open to others as well.
Andre's Aquarium Club is working hard to deliver
the most content and feature extensive aquatic information on the Internet.
After all, we all have different interests and by catering to as many of
them as possible we not only ensure that Andre's Aquarium Club appeals to
just about everyone, but also opens up as many learning doors as possible.
ANDRE'S
AQUARIUM CLUB
WORLD WIDE
We should always remember to try to learn as much
as possible and to record that information, not only for our own use, but
for the benefit of others.
Each member
enjoys
individual attention and
help.
"All of us, as aquarium hobbyists, maintain
our aquariums primarily for the aesthetic pleasure we derive from them. The
scope of the hobby need be no wider than this simple pleasure and enjoyment.
However, many are stimulated to study one or more particular facets of a
specialized field such as ethnology, genetics, biology, or one of the other
scientific pursuits.
Andre's Aquarium Club is dedicated to the advancement
and dissemination of information relating to all aspects of the biology of
aquatic life.
1........How do I know if the Shop where I go to
get my fish and supplies is reliable?.......
The best way to judge the shop, is to look at the selection of fish,
how they are displayed, the health of the fish ( if you see fish with shrunken
bellies, or dead fish in the tanks, that is a bad sign.) The way the person
helping you answers your questions is very important. If you go to a shop
where the people helping you are too busy to give you answers to your questions,
or they don't know, then leave. I would suggest shopping around before
making a purchase. The prices will also vary.
WE HAVE FOUND THAT A GREAT DEAL
OF MONEY MAY BE SAVED BY ORDERING YOUR SUPPLIES AND FISH ON THE
INTERNET
We are working with
the industry leaders in online aquarium supplies retailing and they are providing
our viewers and members with outstanding selection, coupled with world-class
customer service.
Our members have searched the Internet and have chosen the suppliers
on this page.
*If selection,
quality and service are what you are seeking then, this is definitely the
place to be looking. The selection is quite extensive, as we constantly seek
and find suppliers around the world to fulfill your
needs.
2.....When I get the new fish and put
them into the aquarium they hide.......This is a natural reaction,
put yourself in their place, a new environment and you have been bounced
for the ride home plus netted a couple of times, you would hide also. In
a couple of days, after the fish have become familiar with their new home
they will show themselves better.
3......Do I need to have the top covered all
the time?... Yes, you must have your tank covered at all times.
Fish will jump out of the aquarium if it is not covered.Your water
will evaporate much faster without a cover.
4......What do I do if my fish get
a disease?.... The most common disease is Ich. Ich is actually
a parasite. If your fish gets a sudden chill or the move weakens it's system,
you may have this problem. The fish will start to get little white specks
all over it's body. Another disease is fungus. This is a cottony white patch
somewhere on the fishes body or mouth. There are many things your fish can
suffer from, but these are the most common............... ICH, and all of
the above can be cured with the remedies here:
5.......If I have a small outside filter,
what is the best way to clean the foam or spun glass filter?..... The
best way is to rinse the filter material in a bucket with the aquarium water
until it is clear. If you clean it in tap water, be sure to add dechlore
before you use the water to rinse.
6........How do I plant the plants?.....
Dig a small hole in the gravel with your finger, then place the plant
in the hole and cover the roots with the gravel. When you have a plant with
a runner, push the young plants roots under the gravel until it starts to
root well, then cut if free.
7........How many fish can I put in my
aquarium?.....This depends a lot on the size of the
fish. Do not over crowd your tank. Rule of thumb is one inch per gallon of
the adult fish (do not count the tail). If you have a good air stream of
bubbles and good filtration, you may support more. Just remember, fish grow
. If you have a lot of small species you can have
more.
The less
you crowd the tank the better.
8........How long should I leave the light
on?........This will vary. I suggest that you start at turning the
light on when you get up in the morning (try not to turn
the light on when it is dark in the room) and off when you retire
at night. If you are getting to much algae on the sides of your aquarium
, reduce the amount of light.
9.........How often should I change the
water?.......I suggest that you change at least 25% of the water every
two weeks, do not change more than 25%. Always treat
water for clorinne and replace at the same temperature as the water
in the aquarium.
10.........I have a snail in my aquarium, do you
know what they eat?................There are many types of water snails,
they all eat algae and leftovers, as well as some waste materials . The snails
are on the most part pretty beneficial to the aquarium. Most snails
lay their eggs in a clear jelly type mass on rocks, or the side of the tank.
If you get a over population, add a clown loach to the tank, they
will clean out the snails pretty fast. Some of the snails which are expensive
to purchase, such as the Mystery Snail, lay eggs above the water line in
a hard mass to keep them dry until they hatch and drop into the water......if
you have a problem with too many snails add a few clown loaches
to your aquarium.
11...........I have a large Danio that chases the other
three smaller Danio, should I worry?...........Do not worry about
your Danio that cases the other Danio. As in most groups of nature there
is the bully or the show off. The Danio will only play at being aggressive,
when they breed the male will chase the female around until she drops her
eggs, then he fertilizes them. This could be a playful act of pretending.
If the fish seems to be hurting the other fish, put more plants or places
for them to hide in. You could even add two more Danio to the tank, they
love to school.........
13.........What do I feed the baby
fish?.....That really depends on which species we are talking about.
The egg layers will need infusoria and micro food. The live bearers will
eat fine ground dry food and baby brine shrimp.(You can get frozen baby
brine shrimp in most fish
shops.)Fish
Diet 1
14.........Do you have to separate the males or females
with any of the other baby fish as you do with the Betta? (Siamese Fighting
Fish).......No, only some species after they start to mature and get
to breeding size.
15.........I would like to know if there are any fish
that can make my aquarium more clean? Mine is a fresh water aquarium with
several goldfish in it ........There are no fish that will make your
aquarium cleaner. There are fish that will eat the wast food, and some algae,
such as catfish and the plecostomus. To clean the tank of waste you
will have to use a good filtration system. If you purchase a
plecostomus, you must be aware it will eat your real plants and they grow
very large.. The fact you have goldfish brings us to the problem of excess
waste. I have goldfish and I am aware of your dilemma. The better filter
is your only answer.
16........I have seen freeze dried
bloodworms, Tubifex Worms and freeze dried brine shrimp on the aquarium shops
shelves. Are freeze dried foods good for my fish?.........I would
recommend that you purchase some soon and try it, your fish will love it.
There are many freeze dried foods on the market, they are all worth checking
into. They are easy to store and are as beneficial as live food. Just remember
not to overfeed the fish.
17.........Would you recommend the Omega 3 enriched
frozen brine shrimp?.... Yes, brine shrimp enriched
with Omega 3 are high in hufa's, which are fatty-acids. If you can buy the
Omega 3 to put in with your live brine shrimp it will make the shrimp
a much more beneficial meal for your
fish. If your Aquarium shop does
not offer this, go elsewhere to buy your food.
18.........Would you please inform me
about a AQUARIUM Club for the
Internet?.......Yes,
I have a club for all of my friends which are viewing my pages.
Check it out, it is the largest in the world.
Click
here toTHE AQUA NET,
everyone is invited .....
19..........I have a pair of Black Mollies, do they
need special water?......... The Mollies need to have a more
alkaline water, in fact they like the water to be brackish. I have had them
in a salt water tank and they did real well. They will tolerate the regular
fresh water, but that is not best for them. If you change the Molly to brackish
or salt, do it in stages. Mollies are schooling fish, it is a good idea
to have more than one pair together.
20..........I have two Angelfish , one chases
the other constantly, What do I do?.....
Angelfish can be very aggressive to each other,
they may be pairing up to breed. Put more plants in the aquarium
for the chased one to hide in. If they are pairing up don't worry,
they will soon stop battling and get down to laying eggs.
21..........How do you distinguish the males from
the females......That is a question that
is not easley answered. In live bearers, the male has a gonopodium, this
is under the male as modified anal fin. In other species the male is usually
larger (Labyrinth Fishes) and has more color and the fins are usually longer
and the dorsal fin more pointed. The female Cichlids are usually smaller
than the males, the dorsal fin on the male is usually longer and more pointed
also. In many species it is very difficult to distinguish the sex,
I suggest asking the Shop expert, and in most cases if you are planning
to breed a species which you purchase at a young age, buy at lease
five.
22.........Two months ago I purchased
a male Betta fish. However over the last two weeks he seems a bit listless
remaining near the bottom of the bowl or up by the water level. Additionally,
he seems to have lost his appetite. If he does eat it's only one pellet of
'Betta Bio-Gold. I would appreciate any advice you can give me.......
I would not change his water so often....once every two weeks change 1/4
only. It would be a good thing if you could give him some live food. Try
live brine shrimp, or freeze dried tubifex worms, even frozen blood worms
could give him a appetite. Put a small mirror on the outside of the bowl
for him to see himself. Bettas will flare at other Bettas, this will make
him less listless.
Degrades and dissolves organic bottom solids and
scum. End result is carbon dioxide releasing through the top of the
water
after BI- AQUACULTURE consumes the nitrates &
phosphates. Other products require the tank or pond to be vacuumed
creating excess maintenance
Improves water clarity and quality; no more green
water
Will work in fresh and salt water
Cuts and eliminates odors
Converts nitrites to nitrates
Oxidizes Ammonia to nitrite
BI-AQUACULTURE
24........Why does my 10 gal. under gravel filtered,
aquarium have cloudy water? Outside filter Charcoal is less than two weeks
old, ph & temp ok . Too much food?...... This is pretty common
with a new tank. You can wait it out or get some Crystal CLEAR by
Aquarium Products..... Your tank should clear up in about a week all
by it's self.... you may be over feeding.... could be an algae bloom, decrease
the light, change 1/4th of the water and see what happens. The amount of
fish in the tank is also a factor.
26........ Why do some Aquarium shops have such a poor
quality of live food (brine shrimp)?...... They usually only get a
shipment once a week, and do not have anyone with the responsibility of
maintaining it.
27......... Do you ever suggest to mix live and plastic
plants in the same aquarium?........Yes, that is
an excellent idea, I have done it
myself.
28......... When I buy live brine shrimp what should
I do?.....When you arrive home place the shrimp
in a container to be put in the refrigerator or a very cool area. You should
have plenty of salt water in the container, enough that the shrimp are not
extremely dense.(ask for extra water when you purchase the brine shrimp)
If you have fresh water fish the first thing to remember is
to rinse the shrimp
you are directly feeding to your fish in afine mesh
net with cool water. You may not want to much
brine water in your freshwater aquarium. See
question #62.
29......How do you control the brown algae forming on the
glass in a salt water aquarium?..... Brown algae
is almost always the first type to grow. When your tank is new it goes through
a brand new nitrifying cycle. the brown algae usually grows in response to
rising levels of Ammonia and Nitrites. These gases will be present at some
time in order to complete this natural process of waste reduction. When more
of these gases are simplified to Nitrates is when a majority of your green
algae will start to appear. Be patient and you will start to culture green
algae. If green algae does not start to grow you may be feeding too much
thus keeping Ammonia and Nitrite levels high. If you want to help your algae
along get a scraping of algae from an established tank and introduce it into
your tank. Good lighting is also an important factor , I recommend the Coralife
50/50 (50% actinic bulb). Brown"slime" sometimes called incorrectly
Red Algae, is a plague that affects Reef Aquaria, most of all, but is often
found in fish only tanks, as well as variants in colour such a blue green
"slime" & other shades.
30.......What brand of Synthetic Sea Salt do
you recommend?....... I highly recommend
Coralife Marine Salt Mix
Coralife Scientific Grade Marine Salt sets the standard
for synthetic sea salt mixes in the aquarium industry. It's made from pure,
raw materials with broad spectrum biological activity.
Dissolve the mixture completely before adding
it to the aquarium. Make sure the temperature is the same as the aquarium
water.
31...... I live in Romania, we do not have specialist
shops that sell such things as you describe on your pages. What do I do about
declorinated water?....... Let the water set and age for about three
days to a week, keep extra water in a container for the 25% water change
every two weeks.
32.......What do we do when we live in a area or country
that does not have fresh live food available?....... The best thing
to do is use your imagination, chop earth worms into fine pieces,
chop fresh fish or shrimp, collect live mosquito larvae, there are a lot
of things your fish eat in the wild. A fly is a great meal for a cichlid,
a cricket can be a treat to a large fish. Some of the larger fish
can even consume a whole earthworm.
33.......I would really like to start salt water aquarium
but I do not have the room or the money to get the large tank that you suggest?
Is it possible to start out smaller?...Yes, I will write a article
on my AQUA NET
(http://user.aol.com/cebrezzie/aquarium/mem1.htm) for members of my aquarium
club, anyone interested may take a look.
34........You talk about using romaine lettuce for
the fish, why not iceberg?...... Romaine lettuce
has a lot more nutritional value. Always rinse the lettuce with cool
tap water before putting it in the aquarium.
35........Which small hanging filter do you
recommend.......The small hanging filter that I recommend is the
AQUACLEAR, by
Hagen..Click here
to see how it works.
36.......I notice that a few shops display all males
in some species yet offer two for one, how could one breed these
fish?.......You are right, the reason is that the males are much more
pretty and sell faster. Some of the help in the shop do not even know that
they are all male, in fact I have asked the owner of one shop to please obtain
a female for me and he never had the time. The problem is that a lot of these
shop owners are so busy trying just to keep ahead that they don't
have time to service their customers. They do not realize that the very
problem they are having, is losing customers because of lack of interest
in helping customers. I have spent over $2,000.00 in this shop.
I probably will not return there again. There has been at least six shops
that have closed in my area in the last two years and this is one of the
reasons. Just talked to a shop owner on this subject. He says it is the
supplier that is the blame. The breeders and suppliers can sell more fish
faster using this method. This also brings up another question.( I
wonder, what do they do with all the females?)
37.........I am trying to breed a pair of pearl
gourami, the male has built a small bubble nest and I have introduced the
female to the tank. The male is very aggressive to the female, he constantly
bites her tail and chases her around. Do the the males always react this
way during mating?.........Yes, the male will weaken the female which
is full of eggs and will finally get her under the bubble nest and he will
then squeeze the eggs out of her. He will do this several times, fertilizing
the eggs and placing them in the nest. The female will be battered and worn,
get her out as soon as the mating is over, as he will attempt
to kill her, she would eat the eggs or the young if she stays in the area.
She will heal, this is natures way for this species to reproduce and
multiple. Look at my page 7, the Breeding betta
will give you a better idea of the process.
38.........How does a skimmer work?.........In
the water of our coral reef aquaria large amounts of proteins are accumulated.
These either must be removed at once or be decomposed by bacteria. As intensive
bacterial activity in the aquarium may lead to an accumulation of harmful
intermediate protein, skimming, a process in which electrically charged protein
molecules adhere to air bubbles. On top of a water/air contact column, a
brownish protein foam, called adsorbate, is formed and pushed through to
a collection container. The adsorbate of a well functioning protein skimmer
should be thick and have the consistency of paste.
Check
it out... Order your skimmer HERE,
Recommended
Products
39.........My husband sprayed the house for ants, will
this affect my fish?.... You want be sure the tanks
are covered very tightly when ever there is a toxin in the area. It could
effect your fish.
40........We recently experienced a brown out for a
couple of hours, what should we do to be ready for a long term length of
time with no electricity?.....The first thing to
do is get a portable battery operated air pump for each aquarium. Be sure
to have extra batteries available. You can put plastic bags with hot water
in them in the tanks if they start to get to cold. If you have hot water
this is the best method.
The best thing you can do is to be prepared ahead of time. Here
are some helpful tips for things you can do to be ready for the worst if
it happens.
41.........What does PH mean......... pH is
an abbreviation for pondus hydrogenii which also stands for "Power
of Hydrogen" or "Weight of Hydrogen." pH is a measure of the effective acidity
or alkalinity of a solution. It is expressed as the negative logarithm of
the hydrogen-ion concentration. Pure water has a hydrogen ion concentration
equal to 10-7 moles per liter at standard conditions. The negative logarithm
of this quantity is 7. Pure water has a pH value of 7. The pH scale usually
is considered as extending from 0 to 14. As the scale drops towards 0, the
solution becomes more acidic. As the scale rises toward 14, the solution
becomes more basic. Small pH testing kits are available at most aquarium
shops. These kits have color codes to indicate the approximate pH.
PETsMART.com Fish
42......Could you Please make a perfect food for all
aquarium Fish, Saltwater and freshwater ?.....................Yes,
I have created a food after searching and experimenting for forty
years, Andre's Special Blend of staple flake food, and it is available now.
44.........My air pump has begun to be quite noisy,
and has lost a lot of its power, is there any thing I can do about
it?...........Try replacing the air stone. If the air can't get out
of a clogged airstone it has nowhere to go but back to the pump. Thus the
noise.When your airpump is not pumping the same amount of air it once
did, try replacing the airstone first. If that does'nt work, replace the
diaphragm. Finally, purchase the repair kit and replace the flappers and
the diaphragm. If you are not good at repairing things, toss it and get a
new pump.
45...........Has anyone come up with anything
that will reduce nitrates
?....Removing Nitrates
Nitrates are from ammonia. The waste is first in the form of ammonia,
which is deadly to marine life and comes from solid waste or urea. This is
then broken down in the form of nitrites which is a less toxic compound and
then down to nitrates which is not at all as toxic as ammonia, but can be
in large quantities. You are probably wondering how to remove nitrates from
your aquarium. This can be done by many periodical water changes and by a
process called denitrification which is when nitrates are biologically used
up in the aquarium. Some people like to place large quantities of plants
or caulerpa, a form of algae which uses considerable amounts of nitrates.
The plants use nitrates for fertilization. In some tanks, aquarists place
marine plants into the sump of their tank to take out the nitrates and this
is quite successful. Other ways of removing nitrates are to place a denitration
unit inside their filter section. This unit filters out the nitrates.
There are several ways in removing nitrates from your tank. I would recommend
the periodical water changes and the use of marine plants in the tank because
it is the most natural process. Nuisance algae also removes nitrates from
the tank but don't rely on that to be your way of removing nitrates. Siphoning
debris off rocks and from substrate is also a great way to remove nitrates.
There are several ways in which nitrates can be removed, it is all up to
you.
My TDS are at 500ppm how if at all will that effect my tank? I'm
running the water through an RO system,( the 500ppm is the end result).
Thanks, Belinda & Mike
The EPA's recommended maximum level of TDS
in drinking water is 500mg/L (500ppm).
"Fish in general care less about the amount
of salt (by which I mean common salt, NaCl), than they do about total dissolved
solids (TDS). TDS refers to the quantity of "stuff" dissolved in the water,
whether magnesium, calcium, sodium, or anything else. This is important because
it controls how fast water moves into the fish...."
46............Is it possible to breed any
saltwater fish in a aquarium ?........Yes,the Clown
Anemone fish has been breed successfully,and I am sure there are many
others..
Click
HERE to a great
article one of my members sent me...
Degrades and dissolves organic bottom solids and
scum. End result is carbon dioxide releasing through the top of the
water
after BI- AQUACULTURE consumes the nitrates &
phosphates. Other products require the tank or pond to be vacuumed
creating excess maintenance
Improves water clarity and quality; no more green
water
Will work in fresh and salt water
Cuts and eliminates odors
Converts nitrites to nitrates
Oxidizes Ammonia to nitrite
BI-AQUACULTURE
50..........How do you change Fahrenheit (F)
to Celsius (C)?.......To convert from F to C, subtract 32 from the
F temperature and then multiply by 5/9. (70 F -32 = 38 x 5/9
= 21.1 C).
51.........My reef tank has a lot of hair algae growing
in it and recently my aquarium shop tested the water and told me the problem
was a high phosphate level. Could you tell me where the phosphate came from
and what I can do about it?.........Click
HERE.for the
answer.
52...........Could you suggest a way that I can start this
hobby and not have a lot of problems and waste a lot of money?
Yes, I have been
collecting and raising Tropical and Marine fish for over
40 years.
If you would like to be successful with
this hobby you can use my experience plus my club members experience
and be very successful .
You can spend a lot of money and have a
lot of grief if you do not start right and maintain properly.
Many have started this hobby and need help maintaining.
Second, read my pages. I have links to the
best information on the Internet.
Third, the Aquarium Doctor will personally
help you with your problem if you are a member.
53......... Do marine fish require spirulina as much as
say african cichlids in their diets? I am currently using a marine flake
as well as frozen food. I also give them a couple pieces of romaine a day.
Fish consist of Angels, Tangs and Butterflies. They all seem to be very healthy
but if I can do more I will........... Yes, For many species of exotic
saltwater aquarium fish, algae are an essential part of the diet. Lettuce
and spinach are poor substitutes for algae: they do not have the same nutritional
value. Spirulina has several important nutritional features that are important
for beautiful healthy fish.
Spirulina and other micro-algae contain essential fatty acids
that are essential for proper development and functioning of the internal
organs.Without the proper fatty acids, many saltwater fish will not breed
or survive.
Colorations in fish depends to a large degree upon the pigments
that they get from their food. The most important pigments are of a
class called carotenoids. These include beta-carotene and xanthophylls.
Fish species very greatly regarding the type of carotenoid pigments they
can use, and how they individually exhibit these coloring agents in their
skin. Hence the great for variety of colors in fish
Spirulina is the natural food highest in carotenoid
pigments, some 20 times the amount found in carrots. Spirulina contains
at least six forms of this pigment providing a "rainbow" of color possibilities.
When feeding your fish a food containing Spirulina, you will see better
colorations within a few weeks.
Spirulina is a rich source of A and B vitamins, especially B-12,
and naturally chelated and bio-available calcium and iron.
My special blend has Spirulina included in its ingredients.
I recommend my Special Blend @ $29.95 for a large 5 oz.
Container.
54............Please tell me more about
the Protein Skimmer....
In the water of our coral reef aquaria large amounts
of proteins are accumulated. These either must be removed at once or be
decomposed by bacteria. As intensive bacterial activity in the aquarium may
lead to an accumulation of harmful intermediate protein, skimming, a process
in which electrically charged protein molecules adhere to air bubbles. On
top of a water/air contact column, a brownish protein foam, called adsorbate,
is formed and pushed through to a collection container. The adsorbate of
a well functioning protein skimmer should be thick and have the consistency
of paste.
On the surface protein scanning is simple. Foam is mixed with
saltwater, the finer the bubbles the more efficient this skimmer works. Proteins
and other organic materials coat the bubbles, as they rise they make a relative
stable foam. This foam is captured and removed before get can be re-entered
in the system. This is the difference between protein skimming and other
forms of filtration. Protein scanners do not let the waste back into the
system.
There are some drawbacks to protein skimming.
Organic and inorganic trace elements are removed during skimming so you must
replenish trace elements from time to time.
Protein skimmers cannot be used in freshwater
because pH is to close to neutral, and this reduces the electron interaction
between organic molecules and water, which decreases foam formation. The
operation of a protein skimmer aerates the system water and increases redox
potential almost as well as a trickle filter, which is an excellent reason
for adding a skimmer to a marine aquarium. Word of caution, a protein
skimmer can be very beneficial to marine system, but it is not a static piece
of equipment. It has to be cleaned, adjusted, and care for daily or a weekly
basis, or else it is useless. If you are an aquarist that does maintenance
units on your tank only once a month it would be better idea to stick with
a wet dry chemical filtration like carbon.
Types of skimmers:
1. Cocurrant: these are the simplest skimmers.
Efficiency and cost are low, and operation is easy. They are always placed
internally and most suitable for small tanks, 30 gallons or less.
2.Counter Current Skimmers:
the skimmers are in the midrange in ease of use and mid to high in
efficiency. They can be internal or external. These units are usually
used on aquariums 60 gallons or less.
3.Venturi Skimmers: these skimmers are
moderately easy to use. The Venturi skimmers are very efficient because of
the long contact rime between bubbles and water. Can be either internal or
external. Usually used on tanks that are 55 gallons and larger.
I can recommend a good protein skimmer. The
protein skimmer I am speaking of is a Seaclone made by Aquarium Systems,
it is a Venturi and is for tanks up to 90 gallons. It costs about $90.00.
It is basically like a tornado in a tube
and it whips up a hefty froth of protein on a daily basis so I know it is
performing well. It uses the venturi valve to create this tornado effect.
I also recommend the Visi-Jet
protein skimmer model PS-100, This in-tank protein skimmer is
designed to remove organic wastes. The unique Turbo-Venturi injector system
mixes filtered air and water in the pump impeller chamber to create a froth
of micro-bubbles for maximum skimming efficiency. The top mounted collection
cup is easily removed for cleaning. The entire unit is compact enough not
to interfere with most aquarium hoods.
56. What causes the most diseases in the
aquarium.........Most disease problems
encountered in Marine animal culture are the result of stress induced by
deteriorating water quality. The aquarium that operates efficiently does
so because it is stable:, vital parameters like oxygen,ph,ammonia,and so
forth,do not fluctuate appreciably.Animals maintained in stable systems are
subject to limited environmental stress, and they remain healthy even in
the presence of latent infections caused by a viruses, bacteria, and
protozoans.
In well-managed aquarium, the physiologic process of the animals are attuned
to the chemical composition of the culture water. Fluctuations in the environment
brought about by adding new animals (which causes a increase in ammonia),
or shutting off the air(causing a decline in dissolved oxygen), produce stress
that may show up a week later in an outbreak of a disease.
When there is an outbreak of disease, most people immediately buy one
or more of a myriad "cures" available commercially. These substances, when
added to a Marine aquarium often give disastrous results. Those containing
antibiotics and copper kill the nitrifying bacteria, which results in an
increase in the ammonia and nitrate levels. Furthermore, the treatment itself
(especially copper) may stress the animals directly.
When disease is first noted:
>B> 1. Immediately maintain 25 percent partial water change.
2. Check the aquarium equipment. Is the air pump unplugged?
57................First I think your page is great and it really does help
people who want to learn about this great hobby. My question is how do
I breed my platys? I have a male and female and they won't do anything.
She doesn't have a gravid spot yet and she wasn't pregnant when I bought
her so how can I get some offspring here........
You must let nature take its coarse, they will breed
when they are ready. I would set the temp to between75-80 degrees and check
the ph. Also check my
page...
59........... What is the gestation period of the
livebearer fish such as the guppy or the
swordtail?........... A single fertilization is sufficient for
4 or 5 broods. There is no definite period of gestation. However at 75 degrees
the time from fertilization to delivery is about 4 t 5 weeks. The time will
be greatly changed by a few degrees less temperature. At 65 degrees it may
be as long as 12 weeks to deliver. Putting fresh water in the aquarium may
stimulate a delivery, sometimes causing premature births with mollies..
60..........How do you suggest hatching brine
shrimp?........................The guidelines for hatching
brine shrimp cysts are:
Salinity - 20 - 30 parts per thousand (ppt) salt solution or approximately
1-2 tablespoons of rock salt per quart (or liter) of water. This equates
to around 1.015-1.020 specific gravity. A 20% (or around 1/2 teaspoon per
quart) concentration of Epson salt or magnesium sulfate can be added to further
buffer the hatching solution.
Temperature - Optimum temperature for a 24 hour complete hatch
is 80-82° F or 26-28° C. Lowering the temperature would result
in a longer hatching time. Do not exceed 30°C.
Light - Illumination is necessary to trigger the hatching mechanism
within the embryo within the first few hours of incubation. Maintaining a
light source during the entire incubation period is recommended to obtain
optimum hatch results and for temperature control.
Aeration - Constant aeration is also necessary to provide sufficient
oxygen levels for the cysts to metabolize and hatch. A minimum of 3 parts
per million dissolved oxygen during the incubation is recommended. Strong
aeration will not damage or hurt the brine shrimp cysts or nauplii.
pH - A starting pH of 8.0 or higher is recommended. If pH drops
below 7.5 during incubation, add a teaspoon of sodium bicarbonate or a pH
buffer to raise it above 8.0.
Stocking Density - 2 grams per quart or approximately one level
tablespoon of cysts per quart is recommended. A higher stocking density will
result in a lower % hatch.
Hatching Cone - Flat bottom hatching vessels should be avoided.
Cone or V bottomed containers are best to insure that the cysts
remain in suspension during hatching. Be sure to thoroughly wash the hatching
cone with soap and water and allow to air dry between uses.
61.............How do I harvest the baby brine
shrimp?............. To harvest the baby
brine shrimp or nauplii, simply shut off the air and wait a few minutes for
the shells and nauplii to separate. The shells will float to the surface
and the live nauplii will go to the bottom of the cone towards the light
source. Once separated, the nauplii can be siphoned from the bottom or drained
from the bottom of the cone through the air tubing.
Brine
Shrimp
62...........Should I rinse the baby brine shrimp before
feeding? ..........Yes, definitely! The warm incubation temperatures
and metabolites from the hatching medium create ideal conditions for a bacteria
bloom. Rinsing of the baby brine shrimp or nauplii in a fine mesh net using
fresh water is sufficient before feeding to your fish.
63............Where do you recommend that I obtain
Live Rock?..............Check this site
out.....
64.................Does regular table salt harm freshwater fish?
Many freshwater hobbyists keep some aquarium salt in their
aquariumsusually a teaspoon per gallonas a tonic to help prevent
disease. Indeed, some fish (such as mollies and other live-bearers) are much
happier with a little salt in the water. Aquarium books and dealers will
often mistakenly warn that table salt (which has iodine added) is unsafe
and that only "uniodized" aquarium salt or kosher salt should be used. This
is a myth that has been passed on for so long that it won't go away. Your
table salt is perfectly safe. The iodine level is too low to be harmful;
it may even be helpful.
65................Is there a product that will help keep algae out
of my aquarium?...There is nothing you
can doon a continual basis
to help minimize algae and promote plant health as well as fish health as
the simple water change.
This is one area where there is
no such thing as too much too often. A stream or river may change water thousands
of times a day. Best of all worlds would be a tank that is set up to allow
for a constant replacement of water on a daily basis. Unfortunately it isn't
practical. Change at the least 25% on a bi-weekly basis.
You'll find fish and plants will
do better and the algae will be none existent. There is no better prevention
for a algae build up than this, water changes.
Compare that to the alternative
of constantly fighting algae it becomes time well worth spending.
66..............I have wart like swellings
on my hands and arms. Is this possibly due to the aquarium
water?.....
In a recent study in the Journal of Accident and Emergency Medicine, British
doctors described the cases of five people who came to the E.R. with wart
like swellings on their hands and arms. The common denominator... All the
patients had recently dipped their bare hands into tropical fish tanks. And
further test revealed all were infected with mycobacterium marinum. A waterborne
germ that enters the body through tiny cuts or scrapes. Antibiotics can clear
up the infection, but prevention is far simpler. A pair of long rubber gloves
or some long handled tools should be all the aquarium owner needs to keep
themselves and their fish feeling ship shape.
67.........Where can I order tank born and raised Seahorses
that are trained to be fed by hand?.........
We have found a company which very successfully breeds seahorses to
help prevent the taking of seahorses from the wild. The company (Ocean Riders)
only sends the seahorse after it is trained to eat frozen and freeze dried
food. They have a web site that is tremendously helpful in exactly how to
set up the tank (explicitly mapping out the most ideal tank conditions).
The website is
WWW.oceanrider.com.
68............I'm trying to cultivate a reef aquarium,
but seem to be having problems keeping the ammonia level down - I assume
because I also have some fish, which I dearly love and would hate not to
have. Is this possible, to have, say 6 to 10 fish and be able to maintain
soft corals at the same time - or am I just going to have to choose one over
the other? My tank is 125 gals. I now have 100 lbs. of live sand and about
60 lbs. of live rock. Would love to have your opinion. Thank you,
Sorry to hear about your problem. I have heard similar stories
regularly. I have an idea of what may have happened, but it is just conjecture.
There is much you did not tell me such as the size of your fish and the water
quality parameters. My guess is that the maximum "Bio-load" of your tank
was exceeded when the live rock and live sand was added. Not only in terms
of waste reduction via the nitrifying cycle but also oxygen/Co2 imbalance.
This situation causes major stress on all the inhabitants. Also reduced O2
and increased CO2 impede the nitrifying bacteria, just when it really needs
to start oxidizing more heavily, due to an increase in "Bio-load". Ammonia
and Nitrites especially start to accumulate, and it takes longer for the
last stage of bacterial breakdown to reduce to nitrates, the least harmful
of the gas by products. Nitrates are a good indicator that your cycle is
working efficiently. Nitrates are the fertilizers for good healthy green
algae growth. Live rock and live sand often bring new bacteria into the tank
that the fish have never come in contact with.These new bacteria often spread
like wild fire and kind of unleash a "war of the Worlds" between the old
bacteria, also causing a shortage in O2 and most of all creating an inefficient
nitrifying environment. To put it bluntly .... TOO MANY FISH ..... we all
have the great desire to keep more varieties of fish, but we must remember
to give them the optimal environment. Where in nature would you find so many
fish in so little space. In such a situation it is next to impossible to
keep long term optimum water quality. My suggestion is to continue to keep
some marine fish as well as coral but lighten the "Bio-load". Marine fish
are so striking in beauty it does not take many to make an impressive tank
display. I would also do a 25% water change and give the tank time to cycle
before adding any new corals. To me it is more pleasing to see a few very
healthy specimens than a tank full of fish experiencing stress due to
overcrowding. If you must have many fish, just provide more tanks. I know
that sounds like a costly alternative but in the long run it will save you
in fish lives or deaths.
69............I would like to know if you recommend any site on the
Internet that may be as informational as your pages.......Yes, I suggest
that you check this site out.
FRESHWATER AQUARIUMS
with Shirlie Sharpe Your Guide to One of Over
700 Sites
Shirlie Sharpe is an expert in maintaining freshwater
aquariums.
Experience: Shirlie has been breeding, raising, and studying
freshwater fish for over thirty years. She keeps and breeds hundreds of species
of fish, and has an extensive library of books and magazines about fish,
aquariums, and ponds. Shirlie also works as a freelance fish photographer.
Her work has been included in various publications, including Fishbase 2000.
From Shirlie Sharpe: "There's no need to wade through
the vast sea of information on the net looking for the good stuff. I'll serve
it to you with a side order of humor to keep a smile on your face. Whether
it's breaking in a new tank, how to look for a fish supplier, or wondering
how long your fish should live, you'll find your answers right here.
70..... What is live rock and live
sand?................For me, the terms live sand and live
rock have always sounded like a great way to add swarms of new and interesting
unidentified animals to a tank. Unfortunately, if this is your intention,
you will probably be disappointed with both types of live media because in
reality, relatively few animals are included (although the number of animals
on board does tend to vary from shipment to shipment). What they do contain
though, is nitrifying and de-nitrifying bacteria.
71........Hello, got a quick question. I just noticed
that in one of our tanks I saw a bunch of little white worms, what are they?
And is this a bad thing?
The Little worms are nothing to worry about. They are one of many small
organisms that grow in aquariums in response to fish wast. They merely feed
on the organic matter that accumulates in the tank. A good remedy for this
problem would be to add a tablespoon of non iodized or sea salt per 10 gallons
. The salt acts as a disinfecting agent and slows the spread of the out of
control bacteria. Try this remedy and let know how it works. Do not forget
to change 25 percent of your water at least every two weeks.....
Question..........I
set up a 55 gallon tank about a month ago, the only thing in it is a strand
of grape algae. I noticed hundreds of small white "bugs" swimming around
in it. I put one under a microscope and it has an oval shaped body with two
antenna and two long (about the length of the body) tails. Do you have any
idea what this might be, or how I could find out?
Answer.......These
creatures you describe could be many things. by your description they sound
like some kind of flagellate. They also could be some small copopods, tiny
shrimp like creatures. Hopefully they are not a patogenic organism. I would
go to the library and see if you can identify these creatures from perhaps
some biology related books or look for a section on microorganisms common
in saltwater aquaria.
Gulfview Wholesale Marine specializes in
Aquaculture, Live Rock, Gulf Sand, Gargonian, Coral, Sponges, Snails, and
Crabs. Since 1988, Gulfview has been a live rock harvester and established
a solid reputation for the quality to which they are committed. "We strive
for quality... not quantity."
Gulfview is one of
the few aquaculturalists permitted by the government to harvest rock specifically
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