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Plants
It is a good idea to add live plants to all
of your aquarium tanks, for a few reasons:
They aid in keeping the water clear, slow
the growth of algae, add oxygen to
the water and most importantly create
a natural surrounding for your fish.
GROWING AQUARIUM
PLANTS
Easy species to grow
Just like garden plants some aquatic plants are easy to grow requiring
no special conditions, while others need specific requirements. Below is
a list of plants that should do well in a wide variety of situations.
Microsorium pteropus (Java Fern)
Anubias sp.
Hygrophila stricta & H.polysperma
Limnophila sessiflora (Ambulia)
Egeria densa
Cryptocoryne sp.
Care and Maintenance of Aquarium
Plants
All plants require care and attention. You will
have to play the role of Mother Nature to the plants in your aquarium. You
will have to make sure that they are planted well and in the proper
place.
You will also have to provide them with the adequate
exposure to light, the necessary nutrients, and most all, the constant care
and maintenance that they need to thrive. This may all seem a bit overwhelming,
but once the plants are established, they do not really require much
fuss.
How to Grow Beautiful Aquarium Plants
on a Student Budget
The method outlined below has grown beautiful aquatic plants for me with
a minimum of cost and maintainance, and I believe it is repeatable. I originally
tried it on a 10 gallon which had done poorly for 1.5 years which had
gravel-over-peat substrate, CO2 and mirconutrient fertilizers, and no substrate
aeration (actually Crypt. affinis and Ludwigia repens had done ok, and all
others poorly). This time I used vermiculite mixed with Yolo loam (a local
silty loam) on the bottom, covered by #3 sand. I pushed pieces of the pond
lily tablets into the substrate (both the loam and the lily tabs were suggested
by Tuan Nguyen, a former UC Davis student). This tank was exceptional right
from the start. A pitiful group of E. tenellus literally exploded into a
grassy field, with runners shooting out all over the place. It looks like
a small patch of the E. tenellus field in Amano's book. This was encouraging.
A pitiful Nymphoides aquatica which I moved from the dying 55 gal. immediately
put out giant underwater leaves like those pictured in Schuermann's book
(2.5" in diameter is the biggest). L. repens shot up with HUGE leaves, requiring
frequent pruning. Except for the 1st month after setup, there has been no
visible algae. This was my best tank yet. (I should mention also that the
nitrates measure zero no matter how much of the pond lily tablets I have
pushed into the loam). I attribute this success to: the fine soil fraction
at the bottom which provides high cation exchange capacity, intimate root
contact, and holds the fertilizer nutrients in the soil; the pond lily fertilizer
tablets which contain nitrogen (both soluble and insoluble), phosphates,
potash, iron, and other stuff listed below; and the soft vermiculite layer
which makes root penetration easy (and may even help curtail metal ion toxicity
problems often present in freshly submerged soils).
How to Grow Beautiful Aquarium Plants
(cheap)!
or How to Build a Soil
Substrate
Aquatic plants receive carbon dioxide (CO2), potassium (K), magnesium
(Mg) and calcium (Ca) primarily from the water. They can also receive nitrogen
(N), phosphorus (P), sulpher (S) and several other trace nutrients (Fe, Bo,
Mn, Cu, Zn, Mo) from water however these can also be absorbed by roots in
the substrate.
Retaining phosphate and iron sources in the substrate helps to limit
availability of these nutrients to algae. This is the secret to growing beautiful
plants without serious algae problems! In fact, most aquatic plants grow
much, much better when they get nutrients from the substrate.
In order for iron to be available from a substrate, you need to use a
clay, soil or iron containing substrate additive together with a small amount
of organic material such as peat. The organic material provides nutrients
for anaerobic bacteria to reduce insoluble iron (ferric) to soluble iron
(ferrous). It also releases humic acids which are natural chelator chemicals
which lock onto positively charged chemical ions like Fe++ and make it available
in the water. These humic acids also help to buffer the pH in your aquarium
to a good value. The downside is that humic acids interfere with many test
kits which measure CO2 and carbonate hardness. This method shows you how
to achieve adequate CO2 and carbonate hardness without relying on test kits.
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Growing Beautiful Aquarium Plants
Courtesy of Stan Makowski, JERMACK
Even the best of plants growing in the most favorable circumstances require
some basic care. Here are a few practical suggestions that should help to
maintain your plants in fine condition, and in turn make your hobby more
active and rewarding.
An Introduction To Aquarium
Plants
by Richard T. Pon, CAS
SELECTING PLANTS
Good results start with the purchase of healthy plants. These are ones
that have green leaves and white roots. Some damaged or broken leaves are
inevitable and these minor defects should be removed before planting. Plants
with excessive damage, sponginess, no roots, smelly black roots, or evidence
of snail or algae infestation should be avoided. Removal of damaged parts
is required because the leaf damage never repairs itself. Under good conditions,
plants can rapidly replace damaged leaves, but there is no point in starting
off with poor quality stock. If there is a choice, always try to purchase
taller specimens rather than shorter ones. The taller plants have a better
chance of doing well because their leaves are closer to the light.
There are a wide variety of plants for sale in aquarium stores and it
is important to learn a little bit about the different types available.
Occasionally non-aquatic plants are sold for aquarium use and these species
should be avoided. Also to be avoided are any red or purple colored plants
These species require very bright light and will often die or revert to green
coloration inside the average aquarium. It is also important to realize that
many aquarium plants (bog plants) only spend part of their life underwater.
They will try to grow above the water (emersed growth) and can get quite
big outside the tank. Fortunately, many of these plants only require occasional
trimming to keep them under water.
Plant ideas.com
Aquatic Plant Societies
Cultivation
Help
Personal Pages
Plants and Tanks
Liverworts and Mosses Our Most Primitive Aquarium
Plants
I thought wed start taking a look at some specific plants that we
use in our aquariums and how they fit into the evolutionary scheme of things.
As with all forms of life, primitive plant life began in the waters of the
young planet earth. Although it is hard to differentiate between plants and
animals in the most primitive stages of life, generally, plants are considered
to be those organisms that can manufacture their own food from inorganic
substances, while animals must feed on organic materials.
Aquarium Plants
Aquatic plants perform a number of functions in the aquarium. They oxygenate
the water and contribute to maintaining a balanced water chemistry. They
serve as an additional site for colonisation by bacteria and may even help
to seed new tanks with the beneficial bacteria required to break down waste
products. However, plants are probably more often added because they enhance
the look of the tank, while providing a refuge for fish. Well planted aquariums
are a stunning site.
To grow plants successfully in the aquarium, you need to balance the amount
of lighting with nutrient levels. Standard aquarium hoods often have only
a single tube and this may not be adequate for most plants. If the light
is increased, however, you may need to use a fertilizer or nutrient supplement
and possibly CO2 addition to keep plant growth vigorous and avoid excessive
algae.
It is unnecessary to leave lighting on for more than 12 hours a day -
longer periods are likely to favour algal growth, rather than promote plant
growth. Consider adding algae eating fish if appropriate to the setup, Otocinclus
species are particularly suited to smaller planted tanks, as they will not
damage leaves.
When planting a new tank, it is advisable to add all of the plants at
the start, so that they become established before algae has a chance to utilise
any excess light and nutrients. Include some quick growing plants in the
initial stages. Floating plants are useful if you wish to shade part of the
aquarium which will be left unplanted (or contain low-light plants), catfish
and some others will appreciate an area away from the glare of the main lights.
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Trouble-shooting with Plants
Besides algal infestations, plants can suffer other ailments, especially
when the water conditions are not favorable. Water with incorrect properties
can cause as much or more damage to a plant than nutrient deficiency. If
plants begin to wane (i.e. prematurely yellowing and losing leaves, leaf
damage), first check that the water conditions are in order. If they are,
see the chart below for help.
Symptoms Possible Cause Action
-slender stalks
-smaller leaves
-lower leaves on plant stem
-lower leaf loss insufficient lighting Make sure that the plants have
the right illumination period. Change the light bulbs if they have been used
for longer than a year. Make sure that the lights are strong enough for the
types of plants kept.
-small brown spots, developing into holes
-yellowing leaves high nitrate content from lack of water changes Make
a series of moderate water changes.
-small, irregular holes with sharp edges in otherwise seemingly healthy
leaves snail feeding Remove snails by hand.
-stunted growth
-premature die off carbon dioxide deficiency Start fertilizing with carbon
fertilization. Decrease aeration.
Recommended Aquatic Plant Resources
Check out the following sites for quality information on aquarium
plants:
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/articles.htm
http://www.aquabotanic.com/index2.cfm
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/
http://home.infinet.net/teban/
http://www.tropica.com/default.asp
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