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I would like to start by saying that first and foremost, you need
to be sure you have a proper diagnosis before you treat for the problem.
You can cause your fish more harm than good by mis-medicating it. While
medication is good in that it treats the problem, the chemicals themselves
are stressful to a fish (not to mention the stress it's already under for
being sick), so you only need to use medicine when it's necessary. Put your
fish under a nice bright light and look for actual visible problems like
white stuff which looks like sand grains, or white fuzzy stuff, for example.
These are real, defined symptoms for which you can treat.
http://www.fishjunkies.com/health.php
When there is an outbreak of disease, most people
immediately buy one or more of a myriad "cures" available commercially. These
substances, when added to a Marine aquarium often give disastrous results.
Those containing antibiotics and copper kill the nitrifying bacteria, which
results in an increase in the ammonia and nitrate levels. Furthermore, the
treatment itself (especially copper) may stress the animals
directly.
When disease is first noted:
1. Immediately maintain 25 percent partial water
change.
2. Check the aquarium equipment. Is the air pump
unplugged?
3. Never add medications directly to the aquarium.
Most substances stay there. For example, copper sulfate rapidly precipitates
at the normal pH of sea water. This is wide manufactures of copper base cures
recommend a second or third edition of the medication every two days. This
toxic copper is never removed from their core item; it is only removed from
solution. If the pH ever drops, the precipitated copper goes back into solution
and levels high enough to kill many animals.
4. Seriously infected specimens should be moved to
isolated quarantined tanks. Here they can be treated safely without affecting
healthy animals or disrupting the biological filter.
Society of Aquatic Veterinary Medicine
The Society of Aquatic Veterinary Medicine (SAVM ) is
a non-profit organization dedicated to
veterinary continuing education in Small Animal Medicine and Aquatic
Medicine.
Diseases in
fish
Everyday questions and some important
answers
By Shawn
Prescott
I have been very occupied with our new farm in
Singapore, where we are breeding several species of food fish, including
Seabass ( Asian variety aka Baramundi ), also threadfin and shrimp, Paneaus
merguensis.Hobbyists may be interested to know that we have also had a world
first, and bred Batfish Platax tiera . We have to date made 3 shipments of
these to the USA, and will be making more in the future.
Currently we are working on the
reproduction of the Imperator Angel, Pomacanthus imperator, and hope before
the year is out, to begin shipping these as well, plus probably other
species.
Anyway, I decided to entitle this
contribution Everyday questions etc as there is hardly a day
passes, that I do not get an E-Mail or a phone call, referring to some of
the questions that I will now give details of. I will also give my reply
to these matters. I hope it will be helpful to some of you, if you happen
to meet the same problem.
By Shawn Prescott
Member of Andre's Aquarium Club
THE AQUARIUM
DOCTOR
Member of Andre's Aquarium
Club
Probably 90% of diseases in captive fish can be prevented by avoiding
stress. Stress will weaken the fishes immune system and make them susceptable
to disease. Although in just about every tank there are some sort of diseases
but the fishes immune system will prevent it from infecting the fish. In
a aquarium the most common sources of fish stress are:
Improper nutrition,food is not varied.
Not enough oxygen in the water.
Wrong water hardness for species.
Not enough hiding places.
High ph or temp. fluctuations in a small amount of time.
wrong ph or temp.
Tank is too small.
Too many fish.
Incompatable species in one tank.
Poor water quality,high ammonia,nitrates(N2) or nitrites(NO3)
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| Only purchase healthy fish that are free of all signs of disease.
Never buy fish from a tank that contains a dead or a diseased fish.
Always place new fish in a proper quarantine tank for a minimum of four
days before introducing them into your tank.
Never buy plants from a source that keeps them in a fish tank with fish.
If you do, make sure to quarantine your plants for at least 4 days as well.
Purchase fish from as direct a source as possible to reduce shipping
and handling stress.
Remove to a quarantine tank and treat any fish that begins to show the
first signs of ich.
Avoid any fluctuations in temperature, pH, or ammonia levels as these
are all very stressful to fish and can result in an outbreak of ich.
Always feed a variety of properly stored food including freeze dried,
frozen, and flaked.
Do not overstock your tank. Most tanks have too many fish and not enough
cover which leads to stress, disease, and increased mortality.
Maintain excellent water quality and do regular water changes.
Fish Disease By David Rope
FISH DISEASES |
Head and Lateral Line Erosion
Other Names: HLLE
Symptoms: Erosion of the lateral line and the formation of pits in the
skin.
Comments: This disease is usually caused by poor environmental conditions
and poor water quality. If conditions are not improved, the condition of
the fish will slowly deteriorate and the animal may die.
Treatment: Improve environmental conditions, maintain optimum water quality
and proper diet. The use of vitamin supplements may help.
Prevention: Insure good water quality and temperature parameters. Maintain
healthy diet.
HOLE IN THE HEAD
http://www.pconline.com/~jude/hlle.html#whatis
Bacterial Finrot
Symptoms: Erosion of fins and fin rays, reddened areas, lethargy, poor
appetite.
Comments: This disease is usually associated with stress, sometimes brought
on by poor water quality. Healthy animals can usually resist infections.
Finrot usually begins as a mild external infection causing a reddening of
the base of the fins. In severe cases, the animal's body and mouth may be
eaten away.
Treatment: Identify the source of stress and correct the problem. If this
does not correct the problem, the animal should be treated with antibiotics
in a hospital tank. Adding antibiotics to the main aquarium can kill
invertebrates and damage the biological filter.
Prevention: Insure good water quality and temperature parameters to prevent
animals from getting stressed. Stress breaks down the protective mucous coating
on a fish and allows bacteria to gain a foothold. The use of an ultraviolet
sterilizer may help prevent outbreaks of this disease.
Diseases & Treatments
This section contains information about the most common marine fish and
invertebrate diseases and disorders, along with their suggested treatments.
This information is intended to be used only as a basic guideline. Consult
your local aquarium dealer or specialist if you are unsure about treatments
or need more information. The diseases are organized by the categories below:
Fish Parasites | Virus & Bacterial Infections
Other Fish Diseases
There are literally hundreds of afflictions that can effect the health
of your fish. The most common of these afflictions are listed here. A table
of contents is provided along with a diagnostic chart with links to appropriate
medications
Peteducation.com
Fish have amazing anatomy, with organs and systems not found in land animals.
And, like other animals, fish can have bacterial and viral infections, parasites,
and fungal diseases. Learn the symptoms of these diseases, and how to prevent
and treat them.
"Specific Gravity",
"Breeding the Clown Fish",
"Spirulina, all fish need it in their diet ",
"The Coral Aquarium",
"Maintaining the Reef Aquarium",
"The Brackish Water Aquarium",
"Marine Animals "
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Goldfish Disease
On this page we will discuss the General goldfish diseases that are
out there.
Medicating Fish with the
Recommended Treatment
for Fish Disease in Tropical Fish and Goldfish.
If your tropical fish or goldfish show Signs of Stress or Disease, give
them the Recommended Treatment. It's difficult to determine exactly what
makes tropical fish and goldfish sick, but we always use the same 6-step
treatment, and that treatment is given on this page.
Aquarium Information Source
Saltwater Diseases : Symptoms & Treatments
(DISEASES)
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WATER
CONDITIONS
THERMAL ADAPTATION:
Fishes taken from one water temperature and placed into
a higher or lower temperature usually should not be subjected to immediate
change of more than 2 to 3 °C - to reduce thermal stress. The temperature
may be increased or decreased by 1°C per minute slowly.
pH ADAPTATION:
Most aquarium fishes live in environments with a pH level
between pH 6.20 to pH 8.20. To avoid fish pH trauma, environmental pH levels
must remain fairly constant and if necessary adjust gradually in steps of
not more than + 0.3 pH units per day.
OTHERS:
Incorrect or fluctuating water conditions particularly
pH, hardness, specific gravity and temperature, excessive levels of nitrite
or ammonia (mainly due to poor filtering systems), presence of other toxins
and low levels of dissolved oxygen are the main cause of environmental problems
which causes fish diseases.
Common Freshwater
Diseases
This is a glossary of common diseases which infect freshwater
fish. Although not every disease is treatable--or easily diagnosed, this
list should serve as a basic aid in diagnosing ailments.
Copper
At NO time should you be using heavily bonded or chelated coppers, as
they are NOT as effective against the disease, and you can not measure the
amount of copper in your system. Heavily bonded coppers are also much
more difficult to remove from your system once the treatment is finished.
In order for copper to be effective against a given disease, it must
be in the ionic form, and heavily bonded coppers do not meet this parameter.
The use of copper also suppresses the immune system
for a time, so be aware of any bacterial infections that may set in. Feeding
Tetra medicated food for bacterial problems is a good idea during copper
treatment. Once treatment is finished, remove the copper from the
system by doing water changes and adding PolyFilters to the filter system.
If you are treating in a hospital tank, allow the fish to recouperate from
the treatment for two days before adding it to your display tank. Also remember
to remove any chemical filtrants before using ANY medication. All treatments
herein assume that the fishes will be treated in a hospital tank. Certain
medications (antibiotics, methylene blue) will disrupt biological filtration.
If you must treat in your display tank, keep a close watch out for a rise
in ammonia.
Diseases
Most diseases can be prevented by following a
few basic guidelines and keeping the stress level low. Often a disease is
blamed on a new fish when its just the introduction of the fish that stresses
the system.
Quarantine tank
I can't stress the importance enough of a quaranine tank.
Not only does it help prevent infection of your tank, but it gives you an
opportunity to observe your new fish, ensure that its eating and learn the
personality of the fish.
Good Water Quality
Of course proper temerature, Ph, Specific Gravity, and low nitrate levels.
But often overlooked by beginners is Alk. Low alkalinity will let your Ph
drop at night causeing stress and even suffocation of the fish.
Proper Nutrition
Hopefully you took the time to learn the dietary requirements
of your new fish before you brought it home. If your not able to supply the
proper diet you shouldn't keep it.
DISEASES OF FISH
Robert B. Moeller Jr., DVM
Fish have some unique anatomical and physical characteristics
that
are different from mammals, however, they still possess the same
organ
systems that are present in other animals. All fish are
poikilothermic and must be able to adapt to changes in
water
temperature. Fish live in a variety of temperatures ranging from
less
than 0øC to hot geothermal springs. Yet, each species of
fish must
live in its particular specific temperature range. Abrupt
temperature
changes can be lethal.
Diseases Table
A word of warning with using medication: Obviously people want to save
their fish, so they go and buy a product, and sometimes these can be quite
effective. But a word of warning - some meds can be very detrimental in the
long term. Treatments whitch use Malachite Green and Methylene Blue can be
useful treatments for parasites and Fungus, unfortunately they can destroy
our beneficial bacteria, and then you can get a Ammoni/Nitrite peak for some
time. Also some meds demand it that they remove Carbon/Zeolite for the duration
of the treatment - this can effectively start up a mini-cycle as the
Carbon/Zeolite have lost their bacteria.
FISH DISEASES
The early recognition of disease and accurate diagnosis are both
critical if fish losses are to be kept to a minimum. Unfortunately, most
diseases are not caught at their onsets. Careful daily observation will enable
you to recognize your fish's normal behavior and appearance so that any deviation
from normal will act as an alarm and allow you to investigate the
cause.
Q: Why is my fish sick and how do I prevent more illness?
A: Probably 80-90% of diseases in captive fish can be prevented by avoiding
stress. Stress weakens fishes' immune systems, leading to increased
susceptibility to disease. Actually, diseases and pathogens are almost always
present in tanks, but a healthy fish's immune system will prevent them from
being a problem. Some of the most common stressors for captive fish are:
Poor water quality: measurable ammonia or nitrites, or very high nitrates.
The water temperature is fluctuating more than 2 deg F/day
Incompatible species in the tank.
Too many fish in the tank (5 adult angelfish in 10g tank).
The tank is too small for the fish (foot long fish in 10g tank).
The water is too warm or too cold for the species (goldfish vs. tropicals).
wrong pH for species (Discus vs. African cichlids)
pH fluctuations greater than 0.2 units/day.
Insufficient cover or hiding places present.
Wrong water hardness for the species (Discus vs. African cichlids).
Insufficient oxygen in the water.
Improper fish nutrition (wrong food, foods not varied).
Aquarium
Technology
Freshwater and Saltwater
Members will receive a 5% discount on
all orders when they mention that they are
members...
Gina's Aquarium
Supply
and
marineandreef.com
is owned and operated by The Aquatic Group
Toll Free Phone Number:
877-878-9349
Saltwater supplies
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Aquarium fish diseases
Often, detecting illness in your fish is very difficult. However, because
disease spreads quickly in tanks it is necessary to spot illness quickly
and separate an ill fish from others. Hospital tanks are not as expensive
as one might think and they also guarantee the safety of other fish. When
a diseased fish is spotted it should either be destroyed or placed in a hospital
tank. Also, new fish can be acclimated to new environments using hospital
tanks, and this will also serve to make sure the fish harbors no diseases.
What are some symptoms and diseases to look for?
The most common disease in saltwater tanks is Ick. Ick are free swimming
parasites that literally eat fish alive. Symptoms of Ick include white spots
on scales, gills or heads of fish, strange swimming motions, decreased appetite,
and change in breathing habits (the fish struggles to obtain oxygen). Treatment
can either be to remove the fish that display symptoms, or treating the water
in the tank with a solution from a pet store. More...
Very
Important things to
know
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