AQUARIUM FILTERS

Nitrogen Cycle: The Key to Biological Filtration Understanding the nitrogen cycle is an important part of keeping a successful aquarium. The nitrogen cycle is responsible for the biological filtration within the system. It keeps the water free of toxic compounds that are a result of the respiration of the inhabitants, and the decay of any matter such as waste products and uneaten food. When we understand this cycle, we can anticipate situations that may cause damage to this process, and prevent or avoid these situations that may lead to livestock loss. The undergravel filtering system The undergravel filtering system is probably the most maligned and misunderstood type of filtering system we have for aquarium use. Once a fishkeeper understands the principal and proper use of the system, not many other systems make since from a monetary standpoint. Pet shops and manufacturers like to promote all forms of gadgets and filtering systems. Some work well and some don't. They make a lot of money selling them. I highly suggest that you invest the extra money and get a good power head for your undergravel filter. Try running a powerfilter off the amount of water those airlift tubes move and you start to see the problem. If you are going to run a undergravel filter then I highly suggest that you invest the extra money in getting a good power head for it. This will get good water movement through the gravel and will help avoid dead spots in the gravel that can cause a lot of other problems(this is where there is no water flow and the dirt will rot.) I still run a undergravel filter in my 55 gal tank powered by 2 aquaclear 402 powerheads and at that rate the entire tank is filter through the gravel about every 6 seconds or so. My water is almost aways crystal clear havn't head a diease in this tank in over 3 years. Also have never had even a readable amount of ammonia or nitrite in the tank is longer then that. Power filters are great filters but also have there limitations as well, as does any filter. The key thing when choosing a filter is to understand what kind of filtration it provides, there are only 3 types, biological, mechanical and chemical. Biological is by far the most important of these with mechanical being second and chemical the last and really an optional step if you have good biological filterations. I don't do any chemical filtering(carbon) in any of my tanks. With an undergravel filter you do still have to clean the gravel bed which you also have to more more regularly with a powerfilter. So if you want my two cents worth, don't write them off just learn how to use them properly. And for the price even with the powerhead they provide excellent filteration for the money. It would cost a lot more to filter my water that quickly with power or canister filters. But I still use both power and canister filters. It really depends on the type of tank that you want to setup. The aquarium is a living environment The aquarium is a living environment and therefore some natural processes take place. Fish excrete, plant leaves decay and uneaten foods rot. All these processes contribute to water contamination and because the aquarium is not affected by the cleaning effects of currents, flow and rain present in the wild, the water can quickly become turbid, harbour disease and poison the fish. By understanding the basic functions of a filter, one is half way to selecting a filtration system to suit their intended tank and it's occupants. The next step is to choose a filter of sufficient capacity to cope with the size of the tank. Most manufacturers helpfully specify the size of tank for which a particular filter is designed but as a rule of thumb, one should look at the flow rate of the filter. The flow rate refers to the amount of water which can pass through the filter in a given time. In Europe this is specified in litres per hour (lph). This figure should be 3-4 times the volume of the tank for non or lightly planted aquarium, or 1-2 times the volume for a planted tank. Bear in mind that some fish do not relish a current in the water and subsequently filter with a low rate or one that can accommodate a spray-bar should be chosen. Conversely, for aquariums which contain large or particularly messy fish a larger capacity filter is recommended. Wet Dry Filter Every wet dry system is a little different. First of all a wet dry filter is designed to have water trickle through a filter media that is not submerged in water. This is so nitrifying bacteria can grow in huge numbers there since the contact between the air and water is at its maximum. The bottom 1/2 to 1/3 are known as the reservoir. this is where the water accumulates to be pumped back into the aquarium. Wet/dry filters are a very clean filter unit since much of the organic material rich in nitrogen products are accumulated in the wet/dry filter and not the aquarium itself. Some wet/dry systems rely on a u shaped tube that must be siphoned in order to bring water to the filter. Other wet dry units are built in to the tank and actually have a hole drilled in one or both of the corners of the tank. Above the hole they have what is called a skimmer box which draws the water of the surface. It is a water tight box that goes all the way up the height of the tank and has small slits cut out at the top to drain only the surface water. Wet dry can be tricky because a balance between the water flowing out must be equal to the water being pumped back up from the reservoir so that the tank or the wet dry filter do not overflow. Power outages often result in to much water filling the reservoir and sometimes causing spillage. Regardless however, as long as you keep the flow of the filter from being impeded you are using undoubtedly one of the most effective types of filters available to the modern Aquarist. The Revolution is Here! A healthy aquatic system must include biological filtration - a culture of aerobic (oxygen-loving) bacteria to effectively eliminate the toxic ammonia and nitrite that builds up in any aquatic system causing fish stress and sickness. In nature, natural biological activity does the job, but in a closed aquarium environment, the nitrogen cycle - the biochemical conversion of ammonia and nitrite into harmless nitrate - must be effectively managed. Science and industry have long used Rotating Biological Contractors (RBC's) for biological filtration of waste water. As an RBC rotates, its huge surface alternately contacts water and air, supplying beneficial bacteria with the oxygen required to maximize growth and efficiency. BIO-WHEELS DO IT BETTER The Marineland BIO-Wheel is a "mini" RBC. Aquatic research proves that it performs far more efficiently than old-fashioned submerged media, such as conventional sponge and undergravel (UGF) filters. In fact, a single BIO-Wheel Pro 30 outperforms a UGF with 50 pounds of cultured gravel. Constructed of pleated, super-dense fiber, a 7" wide BIO-Wheel contains 9.39 miles of surface area for bacterial growth. And because the BIO-Wheel contacts the air as it turns, the bacteria are exposed to 30,000 times more oxygen than an undergravel filter. More bacteria, exposed to more oxygen, work many times harder to eliminate toxic ammonia and nitrite. That means a healthier environment for plants and fish. AND THEY KEEP ON GETTING BETTER Undergravel filtration deteriorates over time, but BIO-Wheel efficiency actually improves with age. Trapped waste in the gravel bed restricts flow through the UGF so that with the passage of time, it may fail to function properly. But, because the BIO-Wheel is mounted outside the aquarium and is exposed only to prefiltered water, it never clogs. Installation and maintenance are fast and easy... no air pumps, valves, tubing or air stones required. Perfect for a new aquarium, the BIO-Wheel also dramatically increases the biological filtration capacity of an existing system. A BIO-Wheel costs less to install and operate... and it never needs replacing! BIO-WHEEL... BECAUSE YOU'RE SERIOUS ABOUT FILTRATION The BIO-Wheel is serious filtration for the hobbyist who demands the best... a revolutionary advancement in wet-dry biological filtration and a prime example of the innovative expertise that continues to be the hallmark of Marineland Aquarium Products. All Emperor Filter Systems, Penguin(R) Power Filters and BIO-Wheel PRO(TM) Biological Filters feature Marineland's exclusive rotating BIO-Wheel for classic wet/dry biological filtration(TM) - perfect for marine or freshwater application. Click Here for more information on Marineland h Our Rite-Size Cartridges are packed with Magnum Activated Carbon (up to 100% more) to ensure optimum chemical filtration. The larger Emperor Cartridges also contain Magnum Activated Carbon - two full ounces. Here for information on Marineland products History of Aquarium Keeping It has been said that water, more than any other element of life on earth, makes the existence of all living organisms possible. In fact, 75% of the earth's surface is covered with water. It has been estimated that nine out of ten organisms on this planet live in the oceans. Human blood, excluding the cells and proteins, has the same general composition as seawater. It is only natural that the oceans, lakes, rivers and all the life that live in them have fascinated mankind for thousands of years. FILTRATION FROM THE MINING CO. THE BERLIN FILTER One method to keep a reef aquarium is called the "Berlin" filter or simply running an aquarium with a protein skimmer and live rock. This is being done successfully and many hobbyists are setting up their reef aquariums using this type of filter. The way our Berlin system works is by removing the surface water from the aquarium using a prefilter/skimmer box or a built-in aquarium overflow box, and running the water into a sump. The sump contains various chambers for mechanical and chemical filtering, you can choose to utilize these if needed, and then returns the water back to the aquarium. The venturi protein skimmer, also attached to the sump, takes water from the sump runs it through the venturi injector and then into the skimmer. The skimmed water is then returned to the sump and is then pumped back to the aquarium. The sump also contains an accessory shelf for mounting chemical modules or Filter Cylinders , Float Switches, and electronic probes or electrodes. In a sense, the sump is the heart of the system where the water is processed, skimmed, monitored, and where the water pumps and skimmer hook up. All components are easily accessible and easy to maintain. LIVE ROCK In a closed aquaria system, live rock is by far the healthiest and most beneficial means of  biological filtration.  As it resembles nature more closely, it  is healthier for your fish and livestock as well.  It also acts as a home for reef  coral and other invertebrates . Live Rock LIVE SAND and Invertebrates,snails For Reef Aquariums Live Sand and Invertebretes

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INFOSEEK  INFORMATION Proper filtration is critical to keeping happy, healthy fish. A complete filtration system should neutralize ammonia and nitrites, and remove floating debris and contamination from the water. There are three basic filtration methods; mechanical, biological and chemical. Your filtration system should incorporate all three. Mechanical Filtration Mechanical filtration is the means by which large particles of excess food and other debris are removed, screened, or skimmed from the water. This is achieved by flowing water through fiber floss, gravel, foam, or some other screening material. Chemical Filtration While mechanical filtration uses filters to remove debris, chemical filtration uses activated carbon and ammonia absorbents, such as zeolite, to remove odor, colors and harmful substances, such as ammonia, from the water. With activated carbon, each piece of carbon is like a little sponge that traps odors, medication residue, and dissolved fish waste. Carbon also removes discoloration in cloudy water. Activated carbon will no longer effectively absorb anything and should be replaced after about 3 or 4 weeks. To test the absorption power of carbon, take a glass of aquarium water on white paper. If the paper looks yellow through the glass, it's time to change the carbon. Ammonia can be removed by using a liquid ammonia remover that is placed directly in the water, or ammonia chips, which are put into the filter. However, the use of chemicals to remove ammonia should only be required in unusual cases (such as the start up of a new tank or after a large number of new fish have been added). The primary means of removing ammonia and nitrites should always be your biological filter. If you need to medicate your aquarium, you'll need to remove the carbon when treating the sick fish. Otherwise, the carbon will absorb the medication. Biological Filtration A well-established aquarium is a natural Eco-system in which your fish and the beneficial bacteria that naturally occur in an aquarium depend upon each other to live happily and healthy. The result of this interrelationship is commonly referred to as the "Nitrogen Cycle". Fish eat and produce ammonia as a waste product. Excess food and plant materials also decay and produce ammonia. Beneficial bacteria neutralize the ammonia and produce nitrites, which in turn are neutralized by other beneficial bacteria that produce nitrates. Nitrates in normal levels are harmless to freshwater fish. Thus the natural system in your aquarium converts toxic ammonia into harmless nitrates; all without chemicals or your assistance. The only thing that you need to do is ensure that you start with a good biological filtration system and that you maintain it. Three conditions are needed in order to establish biological filtration and develop a healthy colony of beneficial bacteria: There needs to be a place for the bacteria to grow. Bacterial will grow on any porous surface in your tank; on the gravel bed; the replaceable carbon cartridge, wheel, plate or sponge in your power filter; on the bio media in your canister or wet/dry filter; or on the sand in a fluidized bed filter. The water must be oxygenated. Bacteria need oxygen to reproduce and grow. An aquarium with proper aeration of the water and good water flow over the beneficial bacteria, will provide sufficient oxygen to maintain the beneficial bacteria. There must be a source of food (ammonia) for the bacteria. Any tank with fish or plants will provide sufficient food. The filtration system must circulate the ammonia carrying water over the beneficial bacteria for them to eat. What choices do I have in filtration systems for my aquarium? A variety of methods are used to filter an aquarium. All the common methods incorporate all 3 elements of an effective filtration system - - mechanical, biological and chemical filtration. The most common methods are: Undergravel filters in which a slotted plate under the gravel bed is used to provide continuous circulation of the aquarium water (either by introducing a stream of air bubbles into the lift tube or using a powerhead to pump the water) down through the gravel and up through a lift tube back into the tank. Biological filtration occurs as beneficial bacteria living in the gravel neutralize ammonia and nitrites as the water passes through the gravel bed. Mechanical filtration occurs as the floating particles are forced onto the gravel bed and trapped. When using an undergravel filter it is essential that the gravel be vacuumed thoroughly on a regular basis to remove the trapped particles of food and other waste. Also trapped waste that accumulates under the filter plate needs to be cleaned periodically. Failure to vacuum the gravel or clean under the filter plate can result in changes to your water chemistry that could be harmful to your fish. A typical undergravel filter provides no chemical filtration. However, a carbon or zeolite (to remove ammonia) cartridge can be added to the lift tube to provide the needed chemical filtration. These cartridges contain small amounts of carbon or zealot so they need to be changed frequently to be effective. Power filters have become the most commonly used filtration system in tanks up to 55 gallons. Many hobbyists use a power filter along with an undergravel filter to increase the biological filtration (and thus the number of fish they can keep) in smaller tanks. And many use power filters on even larger tanks in conjunction with canister and other filters. An external power filter is the best choice for combining chemical, mechanical and biological filtration with ease of use. An external power filter hangs on the back of your aquarium and is basically an electric pump that draws water from your aquarium and pumps it through a replaceable filter cartridge that is typically filled with activated carbon. The "carbon cartridge" provides the chemical and mechanical filtration. Biological filtration is accomplished by passing the water over a wheel, sponge, or porous plastic plate that houses the beneficial bacteria. In some cases the beneficial bacteria live on the replaceable cartridge. You should only use a filter designed in this way with an undergravel filter as other biological filters since replacement of these cartridges removes the beneficial bacteria from your system. Canister filters are a very effective means of providing a total filtration system. Canister filtration is most typically used on 55-gallon aquariums and larger. While some canister filters are designed to hang on the back of your aquarium, most are designed to be put under the tank and hidden in the aquarium stand. Many believe that an advantage of the canister filter is that it is hidden from sight and thus is more aesthetically pleasing. A major advantage of using a canister filter is the flexibility it gives you in adapting the filter to your other mechanical, biological and chemical filtration needs. These filters are designed to let you determine how much (and what type) of filtration media you want to use. The only disadvantages are that it requires more hoses and connections than an external power filter and thus is more complicated to set up. Also this type of filter must be dis-assembled to change media and thus is somewhat more difficult to maintain. Recent designs from the major manufacturers have significantly improved the ease of set up and maintenance of these types of filters. Other filtration methods have been developed over the past few years. Wet/dry filtration and fluidized bed filters are two of the more popular methods. Both methods can be very effective biological filters. However, they must be used as part of an overall filtration system. Remember, when picking the filtration for your aquarium, you need 3 types of filtration -- mechanical, biological and chemical, all working together to have the happiest and healthiest fish. The importance of the The Nitrogen Cycle Marine Glossary gives you a good resource to find out definitions for the terms you don't yet know. If you are new to the hobby or have just forgotten a word and want to brush up, you have come to the right place. Acidic: A water condition which has a pH lower than 7.0. A trend towards acidic water may be a sing of overfeeding. Actinic: A type of lighting that provides the proper spectra for photosynthesis. Best used for aquariums with live plants or chlorophyll containing species such as reef coral. Activated Carbon: Solid carbon which is used to adsorb impurities from the water, fresh or marine. It is also useful for removing unused ozone from the air. Adipose Fin: A small fleshy fin located behind the dorsal fin and in front of the caudal fin. It is usually only found on characins. Alkaline: A water condition which has a pH higher than 7.0. Air Pump: A pump which is used to deliver air to the aquarium. The pump pushes air through silicon tubing and to air stones or other aquatic decor. They are also an essential for UGF's (undergravel filters). An airstone is placed in each clear tube. When the air bubbles travel upward, they generate steady current which brings water from the bottom, through the tubes and to the surface. Algae: Algae are classified as plants, although they share many characteristics with monerans (fungus). It is that pesky green stuff that many hobbyists try to avoid. It may become slimy over time and will grow in fresh or marine water. Ammonia: This is the first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Ammonia Tower: A biological filtration system which consists of a plastic chamber with a biological filtration media. Water runs through the media, which mixes with the air, and reacts with the bacteria which serve to remove ammonia and nitrites. It is this wet / dry exchange that promotes bacterial growth. Most commonly referred to as a wet/dry filter. Anaerobic: Living without oxygen. This is a living situation most commonly associated with "bad" bacteria. Anal Fin: The fin which lies beneath the body, just in front of the caudal fin. Aerobic: Living with oxygen. Aragonite: This composes the calcium carbonate skeletons of reef coral and some shells. Artemia: A very common food for fresh and marine water fish. They are very tiny crustaceans that are easy to breed and maintain for long periods of time. They are a great source of food for young fry. They grow to about 3/4 inches max. Bacteria: Small single celled organisms from the Moneran kingdom. They are known as prokaryotes, which are classified together because they lack nuclear membranes. They are the most primitive living beings, but help in the nitrogen cycle. Ballast: The power supply for fluorescent and metal halide lighting. Biological Filtration: A loose term which describes the process of removing harmful compounds with bacteria. Actually, it is not filtration at all. Instead, it is the mixing of aquarium water with beneficial bacteria that transform harmful material into unharmful compounds. This process is accomplished by trickle filters (ammonia towers), UGF (undergravel filters) and various other specialty filters. Continue

to The Aqua Net, Andre's Aquarium Club is for the aquatic hobbiests that would like to enjoy the underwater world of the home aquarium.   This World wide club is dedicated to saving its members money  and to saving  the lives of their aquatic friends. Members with their passwords receive a 10% discount Gulfview Wholesale Marine specializes in Aquaculture, Live Rock, Gulf Sand, Gargonian, Coral, Sponges, Snails, and Crabs. Since 1988, Gulfview has been a live rock harvester and established a solid reputation for the quality to which they are committed. We strive for quality... not quantity. Gulfview is one of the few aquaculturalists permitted by the government to harvest rock specifically grown for the marine aquarium in the Gulf of Mexico. Gulfview Marine     Live Rock ,    We have four classes of Live Rock...   Gorgonians & Sponges,    based on availability...  Gulf Sand , Taken next to natural reefs... Inverts, Crabs & Snails, etc.. Aquarium External Power Filters External power filters have become the most commonly used filtration system in tanks up to 55 gallons. Most power filters provide all three types of needed filtration -- mechanical, biological and chemical -- and can provide all the filtration you will need. Many hobbyists use a power filter along with an undergravel filter to increase the biological filtration (and thus the number of fish they can keep) in smaller tanks. And many use power filters on even larger tanks in conjunction with canister and other filters. An external power filter hangs on the back of your aquarium and is basically an electric pump that draws water from your aquarium and pumps it through a replaceable filter cartridge that is typically filled with activated carbon. The "carbon cartridge" traps any floating debris such as excess food, and provides the chemical and mechanical filtration. Biological filtration is accomplished by passing the water over a wheel, sponge or porous plastic plate that houses the beneficial bacteria. In some cases the beneficial bacteria live on the replaceable cartridge. You should only use a filter designed in this way with an undergravel filter as other biological filters since replacement of these cartridges removes the beneficial bacteria from your system. Power filters come in different sizes and are rated by the number of gallons per hour that they can pump. This means the water should be circulated through the power filter a certain number of times per hour. It is recommended that the aquarium water be circulated through the power filter three to five times per hour. For example, if you have a 20-gallon aquarium, you'll need a power filter that circulates up to 100 gallons per hour. For a 55-gallon aquarium, a power filter that circulates up to 300 gallons per hour would work best. Most power filters are sold with at least one filter cartridge included. Some cartridges are reusable. They can be rinsed clean and the inside of the cartridge refilled with fresh carbon and/or filtering media, but most cartridges need to have the filter cartridge replaced on a regular basis. If you buy a filter that has reusable cartridges, be sure to rinse the cartridge in some of your aquarium water or in dechlorinated water. Chlorine will kill the beneficial bacteria that have developed on the filter cartridge. We suggest that the filter cartridge or media be changed at least every three to five weeks depending on the fish load and type of fish you are keeping. Whenever you replace a filter cartridge, always rinse the filter cartridge before you put it in the power filter. If you don't do this, you'll have a black cloud of residue from the charcoal powder in the filter cartridge. This will likely blacken your clean aquarium water. The importance of the The Nitrogen Cycle Understanding Aquarium Filter Systems Dr Stephen Pyecroft Filter systems are very easily understood if you take on board these simple concepts. Filters are designed to: Remove solid waste Create water flow and aeration Chemically clean the water There are all manner of contraptions you can purchase and use in your aquarium for filtration. Provided they achieve these key functions optimally for your tank, then it matters little what their design. The importance of the The Nitrogen Cycle Buying Filters         Check it out          Aquarium Fish For The Beginner And The Expert The Worlds Largest Hobby (click here) Aquarium Technology Freshwater and Saltwater Members will receive a 5% discount on all orders when they mention that they are members... Gina's Aquarium Supply and marineandreef.com is owned and operated by The Aquatic Group Toll Free Phone Number: 877-878-9349 Saltwater supplies   N The Aquarium Doctor The Aquarium Doctor is a Member of Andre's Aquarium Club. If you have any aquarium related questions check out the Aquarium Doctor. Aquarium Doctor                           AQUARIUM SUPPLIES!! WORLD PETSTORE.COM For Supplies at Discount Prices Aquariums Chillers Coral & Shells Filter Systems Gravel-Coral-Puca Lighting Livestock Protein Skimmers Software Make Selection Purchase your Saltwater Fish and Supplies here! WELCOME SPECIAL MEMBERSHIP Andre's Aquarium Club Now only $9.95 Ask all your aquarium related questions NOW! Gorgonian Corals & Sponges FOR REEF AQUARIUMS Coral and Sponges

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The Stingray 2 Stage Reverse Osmosis 100 Gallons Per Day, Filter Systems incorporates high flow and high rejection TFC membranes, a high activity 10" granular activated carbon filter (it works as both carbon and sediment filter). This is the best choice for aquarium water. Fresh water or saltwater..

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