Among people who can actually grow plants, algae is the main headache.
Virtually all other photosynthetic organisms in marine ecosystems have been or are called algae.
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Aquarium Algae
Everything about algae...
Algae is not related to plants.They belong to the kingdom called "Protista". Green algae are clearly very closely related to plants but the kingdom Protista is paraphyletic and includes a very heterogenous assemblage of unicellular,colonial and multicellular eukaryotes that do not have the destinctive characteristics of the animals,plants or fungi. Some heterotrophic groups of organisms have traditionally been placed with the fungi-including the water molds and their relatives the cellular slime molds and the plasmodial slime molds.
All you need to know about algae Kaspar Horst How to avoid problems with algae There is good reason for us to take up the topic of algae. Many aquarists have abandoned their only recently begun hobby after only a short while because they could not cope with the algae plague. In most cases mistakes that lead to later problems with algae are committed early on during the setting-up stage of an aquarium. In reality, though, algae don't pose a problem in an aquarium if some basic rules of aquarium maintenance are followed.
Algae Problems, Every Aquarists Nightmare. By Cory Miller We know many more people have tried marine aquariums and have given up due to problems they didn't understand. AquaSite's 1997 poll of 500 people showed 80 percent of the people that had given up on marine aquariums did so for one reason... Persistent algae problems.
Algae-Free Aquarium Tips Add powerheads to increase water circulation and create a ripple on the water surface to promote aeration. Ensure no stagnant volumes exist. Avoid adding Phosphate (in tap water, certain poor carbons, buffer additives or some foods). Use distilled or reverse osmosis water to replace water lost to evaporation. Clean filter sponges weekly. Wash sponges in a small external quantity of aquarium water to prevent tap water chlorine or too high/low temperatures killing off beneficial Biological filter bacteria.
RED LEGGED HERMIT CRABS (Loves to eat Algae) This article is very interesting in as much as it gives you a testimonial from a respected hobbyist on Clibanarius digueti.
Algae by George Booth The following descriptions and control techniques are for common types of algae found in freshwater aquaria.
Algae Eating Cyprinids from Thailand and Neighboring Areas It is an active and fast swimmer, which thrives best in schools but can also be kept alone or in pairs. It is a strong jumper and should not be kept in uncovered tank, because it will eventually jump. Siamese Algae Eaters often chase one another but they never get hurt in these fights. C. siamensis has a peculiar resting position: it doesn't lie flat on its belly but keeps its body propped up with its tail, pelvic and pectoral fins. Young fish sometimes rest on broad leaves, adult specimens prefer resting on bottom or dense, low plants like Cryptocorynes. The swim bladder is not very developed, so the fish can't stay in midwater but it must be in constant motion or it sinks.
Coralline algae is one of the most important things to grow on tank raised live rocks. Coralline algae can not grow in a system until you introduce it by adding live rocks. The more types of Coralline that you introduce the more types you will find growing on your tank raised live rocks. In their research lab they have experimented with several different methods to aid the advancement of coraline growth. They have noticed that new coralline algae starts to seed itself in the first month and it usually is found on the bottom base rock where the lighting is not so bright. This may have something to do with the fact that all their tanks are started by adding GARF Grunge, which has an abundant mixture of small pieces of coralline algae.
Algae is quick to utilize light and carbon dioxide In newly set up aquariums, algae is a frequent cause of concern. In new tanks the filters are often not capable of processing all nitrogenous compounds effectively therefore, there is an abundance that allows algae to grow. Algae is quick to utilize light and carbon dioxide and can thus feed more efficiently on the nutrients present in freshwater than the plants, which take time to establish and root. The high nitrite levels in a new set-up mean that algae flourishes and grows faster than the plants thereby, consuming any nutrients before the plants can take hold. The net result being, algae flourishes and plants wither and die.
Marc Weiss: Algae Magic 6 Oz Enhances clarity of the tank by eliminating the food sources for nuisance algae blooms (including green hair, brown diatom and red slime) Not harmful to fish, plants, corals, rocks and other living organisms in the aquarium Does not contain copper sulfate Algae MagicTM is 100% organic. It takes the natural chemistry of the past and transforms it to the present. Clarity of the water relates directly to a water-balanced tank. Algae MagicTM provides the ability to lower the food supply of the nuisance algae. This event can take a short amount of time but it is not instantaneous. The objective of the formulation allows the desired plant growth to deal with wastes in the tank to more efficiently maintain better oxygenation. As the increased aerobic conditions of the tank predominate, nuisance algae will still exist (because this is the natural state of the life cycle), however, they will not predominate and cause displeasing aesthetics. Algae MagicTM when added to your tank will fortify your plants' leaf structure. The by-product of this effect enhances oxygenation within the tank and adds an additional food source for animal life. As the plants and microscopic creatures respond to the enhanced environment, the tank naturally clears of visible wastes and nuisance algae ? creating an awesome view. $11.99 Check out all the other great discounted aquarium products
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Freshwater and Saltwater If you are a member of Andre's Aquarium Club tell them YOUR PASSWORD when ordering to receive an additional 5% off the already discounted prices.
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So... What is an alga? (The singular of the word is alga, the plural is algae). Commonly algae are considered to be all of the photosynthetic organisms growing in water or water films that are not vascular plants. Vascular plants are the plants we commonly see on land, flowering plants, conifers, ferns, and few others. Vascular plant diversity is very low in the sea, only a few species of grass, and possibly mangroves can be found growing in this environment. While these are often very important ecologically, relatively few aquarists bother trying to grow either sea grasses or mangroves. Virtually all other photosynthetic organisms in marine ecosystems have been or are called algae.
NATURAL HAIR ALGAE CONTROL FOR REEF AQUARIUMS REEF JANITORS is your top destination on the Internet to purchase algae eating snails and hermit crabs. Please take a moment to review our latest product selection for exclusive sale through the Internet. Proceeds go directly to funding the cost of maintaining this web presentation as a public information source about natural algae control and the reef janitors role in a cleaner reef environment.
Indian Algae Eater gyrinocheilus aymonieri Thrives best in large aquariums with lots of hiding places and in company with other species. Constantly active while continuously searching leaves for algae, keeping the tank clean. No specific water restrictions on quality. Maintain temp of 68-79 degrees F.
Algae Filtration: Method of Nutrient Removal in Reef Aquaria Patrick Ferguson Very regularly in the various forums on the internet questions arise about how to keep the home reef aquaria water quality pristine. Nowadays there is an assortment of ways to remove nutrients from our reef aquariums, including foam fractionation or skimming and mechanical forms of filtration.
ALGAE: Among people who can actually grow plants, algae is the main headache. The main rules for algae are don't panic and don't use any algaecides. Algaecides will kill the plants too and algae can be handled by addressing its causes and being patient enough to try the solutions. One main cause of algae seems to be unhealthy plants. I have used cuttings from algae-plagued tanks when setting up new tanks according to the above suggestions, and have been able to completely eliminate the algae once the plants grew in.
Great algae eaters for the reef aquarium There are a host of animals that love nothing more than to make a meal of what we call a nuisance. They come in the form of crabs, snails, and fish. There are dozens of these algae eaters in the sea, many of which are available for hobbyists to choose from.
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Summary of freshwater Algae-eating fish
Otocinclus catfish Tiny size makes them ideal for small tanks, do not damage plants. Can be difficult to acclimatise initially.
Common pleco
(Hypostomus punctatus) A very hardworking algae eater, which will eat green, brown and brush algae May grow too large for many tanks. Its large size and occasionally boisterous nature may cause havoc in planted tanks.
Siamese Algae Eater
(Crossocheilus siamensis) Eats green, brown and brush algae. Often confused with the Flying Fox (Epalzeorhyncus kallopterus), which is more omnivorous.
Chinese Algae Eater/Sucking Loach
(Gyrinocheilus aymonieri) Good algae eater when young May be less inclined to eat algae when older. Can also grow quite large and may become aggressive.
Algae Eating Cyprinids
Ancistrus catfish
Generally good algae eaters, most stay small (around 4"/10cm max). Individual species may be difficult to identify, although the general care is the same.
Peckoltia catfish
Many attractive species available. Some are expensive. Not all species eat algae.
Whiptail catfish
Some species are efficient algae eaters for medium sized tanks. Some are expensive. Require good water quality.
Brown Algae - Diatoms
Diatoms are single celled algae, brownish in color. It starts out as a dusting on the substrate that rapidly turns into a mat that can cover the tank over in just 5 days, provided that they have a surplus on nutrients available.
The cause: excess nutrients, silicate and silicic acid are the ingredients for a diatom bloom. Silicic acid enters the aquarium by using tap water; substrate can contain silicates that leach out over time. RO/DI units can filter silicic acid out, but only for a limited time. Eliminating silicates can control diatoms.
DIATOMS
Brown Slime Algae - Dinoflagellates
As long as this algae is controlled, brown slime is an important algae especially for reef set-ups. It’s a symbiotic algae, which provides nutrients for invertebrates. Corals, clams, anemones and sponges harbor this algae for the same purpose - exchange of nutrients - while the brown slime algae enjoys protection from predators.
Dinoflagellates has two flagella through which it can propel through the water. If uncontrolled, dinoflagellates build a brown slimy film covering most of the surface, in both salt and freshwater. Controlling nutrients can effectively prevent this algae type from blooming.
Algae in the reef tank
All About Algae
Everything you will ever want to know about Algae
DEADED RED ALGAE
Cyanobacteria appear in both salt- and freshwater setups and are known as red slime or blue-green algae. Cyano is a hybrid, a mixture between plant and bacteria. It has therefore plant, as well as bacterial characteristics and is considered the evolutionary link between plants and bacteria. The “algae-bacteria” is always present in each setup. Cyano is unicellular. It cannot be detected even when using a common microscope. What can be seen as slime are thousands of cells bound together by a protective slime coat, while some break away floating freely in the water. Cyano, being a hybrid, is difficult to remove. Factors for growth are multiple and dealing with the algae-bacteria needs to be on multi levels in order to be effective. Growth factors include, light, nitrogen-nitrate, dissolved organic carbon, and CO2. All of these factors are basically interchangeable, meaning that one or two factors can be limited, but it won’t stop the algae-bacteria from utilizing the remaining factors, nor will it stun their growth. For the sake of completeness, some limiting factors influence the shape and appearance, but not the occurrence itself. Light might be an obvious factor as Cyano is able to photosynthesize, but eliminating or reducing the light will not stop the growth. Recalling that Cyano is a hybrid, it will rely on bacterial characteristics to produce energy for growth. Reducing the access to carbon as an alternate approach has no effect by itself either, since the algae-bacteria can use CO2 as a sole carbon source. A closer look at our lighting may reveal an aging bulb with diminishing wave-lengths. This may create favorable conditions for many if not most algae. For the bacteria-algae light plays a more important role in freshwater setups. For saltwater, while light can’t be ruled out as a contributing factor, growth is dominated by dissolved organic carbon. Cyanobacteria are often treated with antibiotics, addressing the symptom rather then the cause. Antibiotics are not very selective in what bacteria get killed. Cyano is gram negative (thin cell wall) in much the same way as the beneficial bacteria are. Many bacteria in fresh- and saltwater, especially the ones symbiotic with live rock and sand, are gram negative. All of the bacteria will be affected, either being killed or severely damaged. In consequence their ability to reproduce will also be negatively effected. The bacterial balance is delicate and any disturbance is likely to be responsible for larger problems and fatalities i.e. ammonia spikes, cloudy oxygen-depriving water. Another consideration when using antibiotics is that bacteria will become increasingly resistant. This resistance may make the antibiotic useless if used for treating fish diseases. Of course none of the contributing factors causing the cyano have been resolved by using antibiotics. Dissolved organic carbon is an immediate result of anything organic that has died off and gets decomposed by bacteria. Dissolved organics are a food source of the bacterial side of the bacteria-algae. Sources of dissolved carbon include, fish slime, algae, bacteria, digested/uneaten food, metabolic waste, live food, some aquarium additives etc. At this point it is worth mentioning that the protective slime coat is pure organic material, adding to the carbon content once it decomposes. In other words, the algae-bacteria contribute to a higher carbon content of the water, adding woes in the fight for its removal. Aquarium additives, especially pH controllers, contain bicarbonates. Bicarbonates convert into CO2, thus adding to the carbon levels. This also explains why Cyano is often found in saltwater; this setup has a naturally high bicarbonate level. Limiting dissolved organic carbon can help, but the bacteria-algae is capable of consuming all the carbon needed derived from CO2. It is therefore important, especially for saltwater aquariums, to ensure a proper gas-off by water movement and adjustments of water flow. The more oxygen created, the better the degassing effect. Skimmers are effective tools, but need to be maintained frequently. A too small or ineffective protein skimmer, high waste loads, or a combination thereof will increase the dissolved carbon level. As with all types of algae, any uncontrolled growth indicates an imbalanced system, a disturbance of the biological/chemical equilibrium. Cyano is overtaking the aquarium because of a high nutrient availability. Nitrogen-nitrate is taken up from the water column, dissolved organic carbon is in abundance, and the wavelength of the light has reached favorable conditions for photosynthesis to take place more vigorously. Algone takes care of the nitrates, and dissolved organic carbon by micro-bacterial activity and direct oxidation. This in combination with proper aeration and a reduction of carbon sources will banish and control red slime, directly addressing the cause and balancing the system overall.
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they deserve the best care and attention you can provide. A healthy aquarium is relatively easy to achieve and maintain, but it will not happen by itself... it depends on you.
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Bubble Algae
Scientific Name: Valonia sp. Bubble algae is pretty easy to recognize. Bubble algae forms green bubbles on a hard surface like live rock. The bubbles can be masses of small irregular bubbles, or can be single or small groups of larger rounded bubbles up to about an inch in diameter. The surface of the bubble can be smooth or rough depending on the particular species. Valonia, Ventricaria, Dictyospheria
The best way to get ride of it safely is by introducing a small crab called " Emerald Crab" We have tested these crabs with all kind of corals & they were fully safe...The crabs attacked the bubble algae only without touching the corals..
Algae are indicators for lacking water maintenance It has unequivocally been proven that an infestation of algae will only occur if there is a specific nutrient deficiency, wrong lighting being applied or inadequate chemical water conditions being dominant in the aquarium. Also, an over-supply of nitrogen, especially in nitrate form, encourages algae because natural biotopes never reach such high nitrate values as can often occur in aquariums. It is therefore entirely appropriate to formulate the basic principle that algae in an aquarium are an indicator that all is not right within the aquarium system. This can already be recognised by the fact that algae prefer to settle on sick or withered plants. Fish, as they live and breath, give off ammonia(NH3) and other nitrogen compounds into the water. Either in the form of solid (feces) or liquid through the gills. If left to decompose, the solid waste produces ammonia. Rotting food and decaying plant and animal matter also add to the ammonia production. Even relatively low concentrations of ammonia can be toxic in the closed environment of the aquarium. In natural (and healthy) situations ammonia and other nitrogen compounds are not a problem because; 1) the surface area of the water body is so large that some ammonia naturally dissipates to the atmosphere, 2) toxins are so diluted that it can never reach dangerous concentrations, 3) some nitrogen compounds are used as an energy source by nitrifying bacteria. These bacteria are essential members of your aquariums inhabitants. In an aquarium the surface area is so limited that ammonia will tend to concentrate rather than dissipate into the air. Additionally, the ratio of water to fish in an aquarium is much lower than in nature and it can take only a few hours for ammonia concentrations to reach toxic levels. It cannot be removed by normal mechanical filtration. It can only be removed by nitrifying bacteria or massive water changes or a combination of both. In the sterile environment of the new aquarium, these bacteria have not yet become established. The tank is thus referred to as suffering from "new tank syndrome" and is said to not yet be "cycled" or "run-in". Normally it takes quite a while to culture the bacteria that comprise the biological component of your filtration that removes ammonia and other toxins from the aquarium to make the environment habitable. The first important species of bacteria essential to the aquariums "health" is the Nitrosomonas bacteria. This species of bacteria "absorbs" ammonia and gives-off a less toxic nitrite(NO2). Another essential bacteria is the Nitrobacter species which "absorbs" nitrites or breaks it down to a less toxic nitrate(NO3-). In nature, nitrates are recycled by plants and anaerobic bacteria to organic nitrogen which is utilized by animals for food. Now we have come full-circle. This is what is referred to as the "Nitrogen Cycle" or the "Nitrification Cycle". Nitrifying Bacteria The Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter are stationary aerobic bacteria which attach to almost anything and everything in your aquarium. Since they are aerobic, they require free access to oxygen and a good flow of water to make the food source available. The sponge or other bio-media in your filter are designed to create the perfect environment for the bacteria to thrive, that is, plenty of surface area and a steady flow of water and nutrients (remember, to them nutrients are ammonia, nitrite, and oxygen.) Unfortunately they are slow in replication compared to most other bacteria, so it can take a long time to get a strong population of the desired strains. If water is prevented from flowing and sufficient oxygen is not available, the result is termed a dead spot. The aerobic bacteria die and anaerobic bacteria begin to flourish. These break down nitrate as food, but the by-products are ammonia and other toxic gasses. Additionally, some of these anaerobic bacteria can include pathogenic "disease" producers that attack the fish. Nitrosomonas bacteria absorb ammonia ions and give-off nitrite. Typically it takes ten days to two weeks for the Nitrosomonas population to expand to the numbers required to remove all the ammonia produced in the aquarium. Once the Nitrosomonas have reduced ammonia to nitrite, the Nitrobacter absorbs the nitrite and gives-off nitrate. The Nitrobacter bacteria is inhibited when there is ammonia in the water. This means that, in a new aquarium, ammonia builds up to a peak and then falls to zero once the Nitrosomonas bacteria have done their "work". Only after this has occurred can the Nitrobacter begin to multiply to remove the nitrite that has built up from ammonia reduction by Nitrosomonas. Typically it takes 10 days to two weeks for the slower replicating Nitrobacter to catch up with nitrite production. Getting Started The desired species of nitrifying bacteria are present everywhere (e.g., in the air). Therefore, once you have an ammonia source in your tank, it's only a matter of time before the desired bacteria establish a colony in your filter bed. The most common way to do this is to place a few (and only a few) hardy and inexpensive fish in your aquarium and feed them normally. Some suggested species include: common goldfish for cold water tanks and zebra danios and barbs for warmer tanks. People with multiple tanks have the luxury of "seeding" their tanks with water, gravel, and filter-media from an established(cycled) tank thus shortening the run-in time. There are also products available that contain the nitrifying bacteria in a bottle. There are several test-kits available for monitoring the levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Every aquarist should have these. When setting-up a new aquarium, the Aquarist must be patient because it can take up-to a month to fully "run-in" a fresh-water tank and make it habitable. Nitrate Reduction Nitrate is a mild toxin that continues to concentrate unless proper measures are taken. There is no reduction of nitrate by biological means in most cases. High nitrate levels are believed to inhibit the growth of Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter colonies. The most common method of diluting nitrate to healthy levels is by regular water changes. There are De-Nitrators available on the market which I will not discuss here (I can't see spending the money either). Plants are known to utilize nitrate but I don't plan on covering that here, except to say that you'd have to have a tank full of plants and very few fish (very rewarding segment of the hobby with some people). In conclusion: Control Methods: So much for prevention; you can see that except for limiting nutrients, all marine systems have all the requirements (water, light, heat, gas) to grow algae; let's discuss ongoing problems: Biological Controls: Turbo and Astrea snails, some blennies, some tangs, among others are good grazers. Snails are the most widely used scavengers, and generally the best choice. Some parts of the country seem to favor the use of sea urchins, dwarf angels... The former die too easily and move the decor about, and the latter can be problematical with eating expensive invertebrates. Mechanical Controls: Second best to prevention and biological controls are manual methods. Routine brushing of the sides and vac-ing helps during partial water changes. Some acid and/or bleach washing of decor is sometimes appropriate. Physical Controls: State of the art methods include functional protein skimmers, with or without ozone and ultraviolet sterilizers. These physical filters remove and destroy algae on exposure and help oxidize nutrients as the water is circulated. Chemical Means:
Eliminate algae Growth Safe for fish, plants, animals and humans Degrades and dissolves organic bottom solids and scum. End result is carbon dioxide releasing through the top of the water after BI- AQUACULTURE consumes the nitrates & phosphates. Other products require the tank or pond to be vacuumed creating excess maintenance Improves water clarity and quality; no more green water Will work in fresh and salt water Cuts and eliminates odors Converts nitrites to nitrates Oxidizes Ammonia to nitrite
BI-AQUACULTURE
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