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SETTING UP AND MAINTAINING
THE SALTWATER AQUARIUM Page 3
It is very important that you take your time planning what type of world you wish to maintain these beautiful aquatic animals in.
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If you are really seriously interested in pursuing this hobby by creating a beautiful and healthy environment for your aquatic collection, our club will definetly fulfill your requirements with the information and all the personal advisory help you may need. Do not delay, Join today. No one is authorized to receive answers without the membership passwords. Each member enjoys individual attention and help.
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Reef tank
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*The right way is the best way*... |
Setting up the Salt Water Aquarium I. The beginning........ M |
THIS IS SALTWATER AQUARIUM Page 3
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Algae In The Saltwater Aquarium
Algae becomes a problem when it interferes with the aesthetic appeal of the tank, or when rampant growth threatens to smother delicate organisms such as sessile invertebrates. There is no simple solution to the problem of controlling excess algae growth, because a variety of factors are involved. Of primary importance in the closed system of a marine aquarium is the accumulation of excessive levels of nutrient ions in the tank. Nitrate, phosphate, carbon dioxide and dissolved organic matter are the primary nutrient ions. These substances are in relatively short supply in the natural environment of the coral reef. In the aquarium, however, they can rapidly accumulate, providing "fertilizer" for explosive growths of filamentous, encrusting, and free floating algae. While there is no single, simple technique for limiting algae growth, attention to several important factors can result in an aquarium relatively free of excess algae. Growth Safe for fish, plants, animals and humans Degrades and dissolves organic bottom solids and scum. End result is carbon dioxide releasing through the top of the water after BI- AQUACULTURE consumes the nitrates & phosphates. Other products require the tank or pond to be vacuumed creating excess maintenance Improves water clarity and quality; no more green water Will work in fresh OR salt water Cuts and eliminates odors Converts nitrites to nitrates Oxidizes Ammonia to nitrite
BI-AQUACULTURE
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Every Member should read this page!
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marine aquarists to some of the time commitment, ethical considerations, and financial responsibilities associated with the maintenance of a marine aquarium.
Geothermal Aquaculture Research Foundation
marine fish need a varied diet.
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Saltwater ich is a disease caused by tiny parasites of either Cryptocaryon or Oodinium. These parasites imbed themselves in the fish's skin and gills, causing great irritation. Initial symptoms usually include loss of appetite, rapid breathing and scratching. The parasites feed and grow for a few days, then drop off the fish in preparation for reproducing. They lie on the tank bottom in an encysted state for several days or weeks and mature. Each cyst then ruptures, releasing dozens to hundreds of new parasites to begin the cycle once again. In nature or in very uncrowded aquariums, very few of these parasites are successful in finding a host, and their population is kept in check. In a more typical aquarium situation, however, the number of parasites multiplies tenfold or more with each cycle, and the fish are soon overcome. Prevention: saltwater ich parasites are commonly found in nature, and we can safely assume that many normal, healthy fish are carrying a few of these parasites when collected. Since no treatment has been found that can kill ich while embedded in the fish, we must wait for all of the parasites to fall off on their own before we can consider the fish to be ich-free. In the meantime, of course, effective medication must be used to prevent re-infection. Ideally, each hobbyist should have a medicated quarantine tank, to isolate and treat each new specimen for at least two weeks before addition to the main aquarium. Another option is to purchase only specimens which have been kept in properly medicated tanks at least two weeks at your dealer (we medicate all our fish-only tanks full time and we date our fish labels to help you with this). Saltwater invertebrates are suspected of being carriers of ich, and since most effective ich treatments also kill invertebrates (their cell structures are quite similar), they cannot be guaranteed ich-free when purchased. Aquarium Pros. FISH VET MEDICATIONS No-Ich Marine is very effective against salt water Ich and will not effect corals or any other reef inhabitants. .. Revive is effective against bacteria, flukes and Oodinium. Use when fish show red or blotchy lesions, ulcers, missing scales and/or fin rot. Will not harm aquatic plants or invertebrates. Size Freshwater Dosage Saltwater Dosage ... Freshwater Ecolibrium recommended for Ich in freshwater tanks. Will not harm plants, fish, or biological filtration. .
Marine Aquarium Basics 1.Marine Aquarium Setup - Choosing the Right Aquarium - Aquarium Size - Filters and Filtration 2.Choosing the Inhabitants - Stocking Capacity of a Marine System - Community or Species Aquarium 3.Maintenance, Care, Feeding - Water Quality - Feeding 4.Quick Guide to Setting Up a Marine Aquarium 5.References for Further Reading
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When you first begin keeping marine aquariums, the sheer variety of the fish available can be overwhelming. Many of them are beautiful, unusual-looking creatures with fascinating behavior. But not all fish are suitable for the less experienced hobbyist in fact, many of them pose difficulties even for adept fishkeepers. And some fish particularly those those with specialized feeding requirements shouldn't really be kept in a home aquarium at all.
protein skimmer. The protein skimmer I am speaking of is a Seaclone made by Aquarium Systems, it is a Venturi and is for tanks up to 90 gallons. I just recently bought a seaclone skimmer by Aquarium systems and I love it. It is basically like a tornado in a tube and it whips up a hefty froth of protein on a daily basis so I know it is performing well. It uses something called a venturi valve to create this tornado effect. I would advise you to check it out, I think it is neat. Good luck for your search for the right skimmer. "The Aquarium Doctor"
Hints to remember Many lay great stress on allowing the helpful micro-organisms to get a grip first; a process that can take two or 12 weeks, and which automatically reduces the level of the hostile nitrates, and stabilizes the pH.
Many insist that algae be grown first, either in the tank itself, or preferably in a separate external filter which is equipped with its own lighting that can stay on constantly; certainly the fish health and appetites are improved with water that has come from algae-saturated waters. Of course, the algae must be maintained and not allowed to start decomposing!
Patience is essential, even a pH reading cannot be taken, after a change, for some 24 hours; the same applies to specific gravity alterations and readings.
The standard rule is to soak everything in salt, first, before use including the filters and their carbon, etc. If you are wiping anything then dip your clean cloth in salt water first, or at least have damp salt on it.
Sudden changes don't help at all. To go from a specific gravity of 1.025 to 1.000 abruptly, eg. even for washing something, can be lethal to beneficial nitrates. Sudden shock like putting on the tank lights can harm, so always put the room lights on first. Metals must be entirely absent - not in the rocks, lamp clips, wires, etc - plastic coatings being essential.
To get the biggest surface feasible on your aquarium has always been wise advice; with marines the rate of filtration is perhaps even more important - you may need real heavy waves of movement, as in natural life, surging and eddying with evident force.
Temperatures are similar to those for their freshwater cousins, around 75 degrees F with room to fluctuate 8 degrees F either way. Some fish like the low ranges, some the high; so many factors are involved such as seasons, age of fish, their health, etc. When in doubt, do as you might for freshwater tropical fish.
Urine decomposition is aggravated because the lowered oxygen content of the sea water induces a faster intake rate by the fish, with consequent increased urine. If the fish start to breathe faster then you'd better start checking; a part change of water would probably help.
There is no virtue in putting the air pump where it sucks in tobacco or kitchen smells; better to place it outdoors on the window ledge and to run in an extra length of plastic air line on the theory that cold is better withstood than tobacco smoke - something an ocean fish has never met before.
For marines it is almost essential to have a separate quarantine tank - this is just one of the facts of life - also a store of ready matured sea water. And, to re-emphasize, that extra filter; fitted with that extra layer of filter material or chemical, is far more important than having that extra fish. In the end, you and the fish will be much happier.
We Welcome New Members!! Welcome to Andre's Aquarium Club Pages. Some viewers have asked why we ensue the recruiting of members so diligently. The answer is quite simple, it requires thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours to put and keep the Aquarium pages on the Internet. When most of us started keeping aquariums, we went into the hobby blind. We read outdated books and listened to the self-serving advice from our local fish shops. Only after the death of many aquatic animals and the purchase of expensive, useless equipment did we accumulate the knowledge and skills necessary to successfully keep these creatures. Looking back on those years of “trial and error” aquarium keeping, we've often wondered why someone never guided people through the setup and maintenance of the aquarium. Well, finally someone is. Sure, you will find many other aquarium related web sites on the Internet, thousands of great sites, but none with as much information as Andre's Aquarium Pages. We cover practically every subject relating to the aquarium in a way that any novice or expert can understand. We have hundreds of members not only asking questions, but also supplying answers. We have spent an enormous amount of time developing this web site along with the program that lies within and are truly convinced that it can be one of the best things that has ever happened to the marine hobbyist as they pursue the aquatic world of their dreams. We believe that people that work hard and make the right decisions in life can achieve anything they want.
Cyclone BAK-PAKsm 2 Bio-Filter The Cyclone BAK-PAKsm 2 Bio-Filter is the second generation external, hang on the back, combination Protein Skimmer and Biological Filtration unit from CPR. The Bak-Paksm 2, like the original, is designed for tank sizes up to 60 gallons, but multiple units may be used for larger aquariums. Water first enters the Protein Skimmer column from the aquarium. It then flows through the biological chamber filled with Bio-Baletm filtration media before returning to the aquarium. The Protein Skimmer is driven by a Rio 600 with the “Rejuvenation System” modification which mixes air and water before it is drawn through the impeller and broken up into tiny bubbles. Bubble dwell time is increased by the counter-current flow in the skimmer column. The quality of the foam collected can be controlled by raising and lowering the collection cup To set up the Bak-Paksm 2, hang the unit behind the aquarium and plug in— that’s it. New improved design incorporates an easy to clean intake tube and an enclosed, directional outflow to reduce salt splash and micro-bubbles entering into tank. The new design also uses a smoke colored break-resistant collection cup. Body Size: 7.5" wide, 3" deep, 17.5" height P.S. Andre also recommends The Cyclone BAK-PAK 2 Protein Skimmer by CPR Aquatics is the second generation external, hang on the back, combination Protein Skimmer and Biological Filtration unit from CPR. Cyclone BAK-PAK 2 Protein Skimmer Andre's Choice, Check it out...
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Dedicated to improving aquatic health. Producing safe and effective treatments for both fresh and saltwater applications.
Buying a better fish. Now to the more general topic of how to avoid “importing” disaster to your aquarium. Many hobbyists I hear from seem to have little faith in the advice of their dealer. This begs the question why if this be so, do they continue to buy from them. Sometimes geography will be the reason, but certainly this cannot always the answer.
Impetuosity is without doubt a major reason, as is the fact that we expect instant perfection with little input on our side.
The first thing to observe when selecting a dealer, is to find out how long they have been in business. This may be a little unfair to new entrants to the industry, but usually a store that has survived the first 3 years or more will make it, whilst failures, as in most kinds of business, will take place within the first 1-2 years. It would appear self evident, that those that make it, are usually more knowledgeable than those that do not. Also in many cases more ethical.
Secondly, does the store or/and its employees appear to have a good background in the science of fish keeping, or do you get the impression that they are trying to sell you some equipment or fish just to make a sale,.
Thirdly, do they take the time and trouble, to find out what kind of equipment you already use, and which species of fish you currently have in your set-up. This is important, because I find often, that hobbyists, have purchased incompatible fish, which then cause stress to each other, and subsequent disease outbreaks.
Fourthly, Does the store have some really magnificent show tanks, not only a reef tank, but also a planted fresh water aquarium, and in fact at least on example of how an aquarium should be , of the type YOU are interested in. It is notable to me, that in Japan, and many parts of Europe many stores appear to have as many “demonstration” not for sale tanks as they do, tanks from which they do sell. This does two important things for you the buyer. It enables you to have an idea of just how beautiful an aquarium can be, when maintained properly. It shows you that the store must know what they are talking about in how to keep such a beautiful show tank.
Fifthly, Are the tanks in the store clean, the water sparkling clear, and is there, as there should be a TOTAL lack of any dead or sick fish in the tanks. NEVER buy from a store where such evident examples of problems can be seen. Every store will have some sick fish, but the good stores, will firstly quarantine all new arrivals and treat them for a few days, and certainly will pay close attention to all and any signs of problems and remove them for treatment. Sometimes I have seen good stores that be treating a tank, and will have a paper or other screen over a tank during this period, with a sign saying “not for sale” or suchlike. This store is taking it’s responsibilities seriously and is likely a serious store.
Sixthly Is the fish or fishes you intend to buy eating properly. Have you seen them rush greedily for some food. Fish that are sick, or shortly to become so, very typically are sluggish or indifferent to feeding, and this is often an excellent warning sign.
Seven. Has the fish you wish to purchase been in the store for at least a week? Most problems occur either immediately on arrival or in the subsequent few days. If a new arrival especially appeals to you, and you are worried that the store may sell it before you return, then ask to leave a small deposit ,as a sign of good faith. All good store owners will be happy to do this for a regular customer, and if it should get ill , or needs further treatment, you can either wait, get your money refunded, or apply it to another purchase. In every case you will avoid almost certain problems.
Eight. Is your aquarium in perfect condition, and are the fish you wish to buy, unlikely to overload the carrying capacity of your tank. Each tank can only sustain so many fish, and if in your enthusiasm you wish to capacity beyond what the tank and it’s support system can safely allow, then catastrophe is guaranteed. The old rule of about 1 inch of fish body, per gallon of water in the tank is about right, at least in fresh water, yet I constantly see this been exceeded. Remember that in nature the fish have hundreds of times this “living space” and a constant natural replacement and/or natural eco- system and filtration to back it up.
Nine. Not always possible, but highly recommended. Try and have a small quarantine tank ( 10-25 gal) which you keep with some form of active biological filtration, etc, and keep the new arrival in this tank for 3-4 days after purchase. Should the worst occur, you can treat easily and effectively, without the trauma of pulling down or destroying your main aquarium, in an attempt to catch all the inhabitants, or having to treat in the main aquarium, which at the least will use far more medication. Ensure that in the “hospital” tank, there is some stones or other hiding places, as otherwise the fish may easily become stressed due to fright. Normally I would not medicate, only if something appears that requires it, as all medications have some stress factor in themselves, but on occasion cannot be avoided.
Finally, read up on the fish you are keeping and wish to keep. Many fish have some special requirement in their diets, yet to many hobbyists, buy a packet of standard food, and feed that religiously every day, so that the essential missing factor in time assumes a critical importance and the fish weakens. By finding out through reading good literature you will become aware of what the needs of your fish are, and sometimes this will apply to water chemistry, temperature etc as well. Information is readily available in this day and age, so use it, and have happier and healthier fish.
Shawn Prescott
You may also be wondering just how many fish you can successfully keep in your aquarium. While many variables affect that answer, a general rule is to stock no more than 1/2 inch (do not count the tail) of fully grown fish per gallon of water in your aquarium. For example, if you have a 30-gallon aquarium, ideally stock no more than 15 total inches of fully grown fish. Always remember to consider your desired fishes' maximum size when full grown when calculating this amount.
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Gulfview Marine
Live Rock , We have four classes of Live Rock... Gorgonians & Sponges, Gargonians and Sponges based on availability... Gulf Sand , Taken next to natural reefs... Inverts, Crabs & Snails, etc.. |
Gulfview Wholesale Marine specializes in Aquaculture, Live Rock, Gulf Sand, Gargonian, Coral, Sponges, Snails, and Crabs. Since 1988, Gulfview has been a live rock harvester and established a solid reputation for the quality to which they are committed. We strive for quality... not quantity. Gulfview is one of the few aquaculturalists permitted by the government to harvest rock specifically grown for the marine aquarium in the Gulf of Mexico.
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Vince Couchara, My Marine Aquarium Check my tan
On transporting your fish
Every Member should read this page! |
The Breeder's Registry was established to collect and make available
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Setting up the Saltwater Aquarium Page4
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Barger, member.
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